2 Weeks in Northern Spain and Portugal: One Delicious Itinerary
Traveled in October 2019
Get your stomach and taste buds ready for some serious culinary delights on this Northern Spain and Portugal itinerary. A vacation that revolves around eating different delicious foods every day? Yes, please! Northern Spain (also known as the Basque region) is a foodie paradise. The tapas are delicious, unique, and plentiful. And there is also some seriously beautiful scenery to enjoy on your walks in between meals to make room for the next meal. Portugal also does not disappoint the taste buds or the eyes. There are some unique treats in Portugal that you won’t be able to find back home. And Portugal is not an Instagram darling for nothing – the streets and buildings are stunning. Get ready for a work out though because the hills are no joke! Luckily all that walking makes room for more eating. Getting a feel for the vibe of this trip?
You’ll notice that this itinerary has more hotel changes and more activities than my other itineraries. It’s designed for traveling without kids, but you could pick and choose pieces of it and leave out some activities to slow down the pace to make it more kid-friendly. Overall, Spain and Portugal are super kid-friendly because that is the culture. The only thing that might be tough with a kid is the late dinner times.
This was the last trip that we took before the COVID pandemic changed the world. Sadly, some of the amazing places that we visited have closed since our trip. One thing that I have learned from the pandemic is that nothing is forever. The world won’t wait for you. Putting off things like travel may lead to missing out on some amazing experiences. I wish I had more pictures of the food to entice you to visit these lovely regions, but they were eaten too quickly and enjoyed too thoroughly to be photographed. Please just take my word for it and go taste and see these regions for yourself! This is a long post – if you don’t need the background logistics, use the table of contents or click here to skip straight ahead to the itinerary!
- Northern Spain and Portugal Itinerary
- When to Go
- How to Get There
- Where to Stay in Northern Spain and Portugal
- How to Get Around
- Show Me the Money
- How to Stay Connected
- Northern Spain and Portugal Itinerary at a Glance
- Day 1: Las Ramblas and Boqueria Market
- Day 2: Explore Barcelona
- Day 3: Travel to San Sebastian
- Ready to Feast? Book Your Spain and Portugal Vacation Today!
- Day 4: Monte Urgull and Concha Beach Promenade
- Day 5: Travel to Bilbao
- Day 6: Explore Bilbao
- Day 7: Day Trip to Santander
- Day 8: Travel to Porto
- Day 9: Explore Porto
- Day 10: Travel to Lisbon
- Day 11: Day Trip to Belem
- Day 12: Day Trip to Sintra
- Day 13: Travel to Lagos and Boat Tour to Benagil Caves
- Day 14: Ponta da Piedade Boat Tour then Return to Lisbon
- Day 15: Fly Home
Northern Spain and Portugal Itinerary
When to Go
I always prefer to travel in shoulder season to avoid the crowds and for cooler weather. Summer is definitely peak season in Portugal and Northern Spain, but it gets HOT and crowded. We traveled in October, and the weather was pleasant for us, but a little cool for actually enjoying the beach. If you do want some beach time, then September or early June might be a good compromise of warm weather with less crowds. Winter weather might be more unpredictable with more rain in the north of Spain and Portugal. This would definitely make it harder to walk around on the slippery cobblestone roads. And since so much of the charm of these regions comes from exploring on foot, that might put a damper on the holiday. But if you do get lucky with good weather in the winter, you’ll find the least crowds and best prices.
How to Get There
This trip starts and ends in different countries, so to be most efficient with travel time you would not book a round trip ticket. You can either search for two one-way tickets separately, or search for a multi-city flight itinerary.
The two biggest international airports in Spain are Madrid (airport code MAD) and Barcelona (airport code BCN). These two airports would be your best bet if looking for a nonstop flight from the United States. The high speed trains from Madrid and Barcelona to San Sebastian take about 5-7 hours from either city, so you could fly into either city. There is also a smaller regional airport in Bilbao (airport code BIO) if you prefer to fly into Northern Spain rather than taking the train. We found a great deal on plane tickets to Barcelona, which is why our itinerary starts in Barcelona. If prices were the same, we would take the connecting flight to Bilbao to save time.
To travel between Northern Spain and Portugal, we flew between Bilbao (airport code BIO) and Porto (airport code OPO). The train from Porto to Lisbon takes about 3 hours. The larger international airport in Portugal is in Lisbon (airport code LIS), so it makes more sense to end the trip in Lisbon and fly home from there.
We started this trip in Spain and ended in Portugal, but you can also do this trip the other way around as well.
Booking tip: certain flight searches like Kayak, Skyscanner, or Google flights allow you to set price trackers that will alert you when the price of your flight changes. I never book a flight without tracking prices first because there is no better feeling than snagging a good deal! And if you book your flights with a travel credit card like the Chase Sapphire card (use my referral for bonus points!), the card usually includes some travel insurance protections (like lost luggage reimbursements, trip delay reimbursements, or trip cancellation insurance) to save you the cost of buying extra travel insurance.
Bonus Booking tip: sign your kiddo up for frequent flyer accounts with airlines to start earning airline miles for them! Most airline miles do not expire for minors so your kiddo will thank you later.
Where to Stay in Northern Spain and Portugal
For this Northern Spain and Portugal itinerary, you will be staying 2 nights in Barcelona, 2 nights in San Sebastian, 3 nights in Bilbao, 2 nights in Porto, 3 nights in Lisbon, 1 night in Lagos, and 1 night in Lisbon. As you can see, there is a lot of moving around. However, it is necessary because these cities are too far away from each other to do as day trips to do them justice.
Barcelona Hotel Recommendation
We stayed at the Izaila Plaza Catalunya and loved it. The location right off Plaza Catalunya is amazing for ease of transportation. There are plenty of shops and restaurants walking distance away, and Gaudi’s houses and Las Ramblas are also just a couple minutes walk away. The room was clean, spacious, and modern. Of the places we have stayed in Barcelona, this was my favorite.
If this hotel is not quite what you’re looking for, check out these other hotels near Plaza Catalunya.
San Sebastian Hotel Recommendation
We stayed at the Pension Iturriza and found it to be super convenient. While the rooms are on the cozy side, they are clean with minimalist vibes. Ideal for resting after a long day of eating. The location is my idea of perfect; right in the heart of the old town, but tucked away on a quiet side street. It is a short walk to all the tapas bars and the beach.
Bilbao Hotel Recommendation
We stayed at the Bilbao City Rooms. The location is again fantastic since it is walking distance to the Guggenheim Museum and to the tapas bars. However, the room itself was not our favorite. It was definitely clean, but pretty close quarters. The bathroom was basically next to the bed, and separated by just a sliding glass door. You can imagine that using the bathroom was not the most private experience. The price is reasonable though, so you can’t expect luxury when paying budget prices.
If visiting again now, I would probably consider the Inside Bilbao Apartments, which are in a similar location but are modern apartments with more space.
Porto Hotel Recommendation
The Old Town in Porto is compact and walkable, which makes it an ideal place to stay for a short visit. The Old Town is oozing with charm and stunning views around every corner.
We stayed at the Editory House Ribeira Porto Hotel and loved the location. It is located a block away from the river and is walking distance to all the shops and sights of the old town. The building is charming on the outside, and beautifully decorated and modern on the inside. The rooms were clean and had a good layout, but sometimes the room had a faint musty smell in them. Maybe it is just because it is an older building close to the river.
I also considered the highly rated Belomont52 Guest House, which is further from the river and closer to the old town, but also looks modern with beautiful decor.
If those gems are already booked up, check out these highly rated stays in the Old Town of Porto!
Lisbon Hotel Recommendation
If you are looking for the most centrally located neighborhoods to stay in Lisbon for a visitor, then Baixa and Chiado are my picks. Baixa and Chiado are right in the center of the action, close to all the main sights and restaurants. These neighborhoods also have great transportation connections if you are planning on doing day trips out to Sintra and Belem. While some like to stay in the Alfama for the charm of the old-fashioned lanes, for a quick trip like this I prefer to be in a more central location to maximize our sightseeing time.
We stayed at the Tesouro da Baixa by Shiadu, which felt like staying in someone’s home (in a good way). The eclectic furniture in the room made it feel more lived in and less like a hotel. However, while some of the furnishings were vintage, I appreciated that the bathrooms were modern. There was a metro station close by, which was convenient. However, like most of Lisbon, this hotel is located uphill. We’re not averse to hills and usually prefer walking, but we did find ourselves using Uber to get back to this hotel more than we ever do because of the steady uphill climb on slippery cobblestone streets.
Click here to find the best hotels in the Baixa/Chiado district!
On our last night in Lisbon, we opted to stay in the Parque das Nacoes area to be closer to the airport since we had an early flight. Note that this area is about 30 min away from the city center, so would not stay here when exploring Lisbon. The Hotel Ibis Lisboa Parque das Nacoes is a no frills budget hotel, but it is clean and walking distance to the train station. A good option for saving some money on lodging if you just need a clean place to sleep close to the airport before an early flight.
Lagos Hotel Recommendation
We stayed at the B&B do Paco, Lagos. It is a cute B&B in the center of the old town, but located on a quieter side street. It is only a short walk to the beach and the marina where the boat tours depart. However, the real gem of this place is the host. He was very welcoming and spent a long time explaining the area to us and made many recommendations about things to do and eat. One of his restaurant recommendations was the highlight of our trip. The room itself was clean and functional. It was fine for a one night stay. Note that there is no elevator, and the spiral stairs to the top floor are narrow. So don’t book the top floor if you have a large luggage!
Other cute B&Bs in the same area with great reviews are Infante Guesthouse, Perola Azul, and Your Vintage Townhouse Lagos.
How to Get Around
Many people explore Northern Spain as a road trip by renting a car. This is a great option if you’re interested in visiting some of the smaller towns in Northern Spain that are less connected through public transportation. We opted not to drive for this trip, so everything in this Northern Spain and Portugal itinerary is easily reachable by trains or buses.
We also relied on public transportation in Portugal because we mostly stayed within Porto and Lisbon. However, if you plan to explore the Douro wine region while in Porto then a car might be more efficient. A car would also be useful if staying longer in the Algarve region of Portugal. This would allow you more flexibility to explore the many smaller towns and villages along the Algarve coast. Since we only had a short time in the Algarve region, we did not have enough time to make a car rental worth the trouble.
Show Me the Money
Spain and Portugal are both part of the European Union, so the currency used in both countries is the Euro. Credit cards were widely accepted, so we mostly relied on our no-foreign-transaction-fee credit card. We use the Chase Sapphire Reserve card (use my referral for bonus points!). Always choose to pay in the local currency rather than USD for a better exchange rate. We did withdraw a small amount of Euros after we arrived in Spain just in case since we were traveling to some smaller towns. If withdrawing any cash, look for ATMS run by the local banks and always choose to withdraw the amount in Euros rather than USD for a better exchange rate.
Saving tip: to avoid ATM fees (from the foreign bank and your bank), look for a checking account that offers ATM fee reimbursements. I can personally recommend the Schwab investors checking account and the Betterment checking account for this purpose.
How to Stay Connected
Because we took this trip before e-sims were commonly used, we bought tourist prepaid sim cards for our cell phones during this trip. Orange and Vodaphone are two popular cell phone companies in Europe and sell prepaid tourist sim cards that can be used throughout Europe.
However, if traveling again we would definitely use an e-sim from Airalo.
If you have an unlocked phone, then you can either purchase a prepaid sim card or you can use an e-sim. The e-sim is the cheapest way to get international cell phone data. We had a great experience using Airalo to purchase an e-sim on our trip to Canada and it worked seamlessly again. The downside is that you only have data and no phone service when using Airalo e-sims, so it’s a good option if you don’t anticipate needing to make phone calls. The Airalo website has great tutorials and I also watched this Youtube video for more installation tips. We usually start the installation process at home to load the e-sim into our phones, and then once we land at our destination we turn off our US e-sim and turn on the international e-sim.
Airalo offers local e-sims for specific countries or regional e-sims for all of Europe. For this Northern Spain and Portugal itinerary, you could either buy separate Spain and Portugal e-sims, or get the regional Europe e-sim to cover the entire trip.
Northern Spain and Portugal Itinerary at a Glance
Day 1: Las Ramblas and Boqueria Market
Take the Aerobus directly from the airport to Plaza Catalunya (35 min). You can buy Aerobus tickets at the airport at various ATMs, or purchase them online here. When purchasing online, the ticket is valid for 1 year from the date of purchase. Kids under 4 are free with an adult. Check the Aerobus website for all the stops and the time table.
After dropping off your luggage, take a stroll down Las Ramblas. Stop in the Boqueria Market to admire the displays of fresh fruit and pick up a snack (maybe your first jamon of the trip?). If you are a soccer fan (like my husband), check to see if there are any FC Barcelona games and buy tickets here. The atmosphere at the games is electric, so it’s fun even if you’re not a football superfan.
Day 2: Explore Barcelona
Barcelona is known for its whimsical buildings designed by the iconic architect Antoni Gaudi. We visit the Sagrada Familia church every time we visit Barcelona (timed entry tickets required, buy tickets here). It is so cool to actually see a monumental church of this scale being built in our lifetime, and it is awe-inspiring to see the progress that they have made between each visit. The design is inspired by nature, and different from any other church you have probably seen before. Inside, it is whimsical, light and bright, and peaceful. Definitely worth a visit even if you are not religious.
Nearby to the Sagrada Familia is the Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau, a former hospital turned architectural gem. It was not designed by Gaudi, but the buildings have a similar art-nouveau vibe. It is a nice wander off the beaten path to admire more unique architecture.
Besides the Sagrada Familia, the other popular Gaudi sites to visit are Parc Guell (timed entry tickets required, buy tickets here), Casa Batllo (cheaper tickets available online), and La Pedrera (tickets online here, usually don’t sell out). If you are a Gaudi enthusiast or someone who has FOMO, you can go to both Casa Batllo and La Pedrera. But otherwise, visiting one of the houses should give you a good enough feel for Gaudi’s housing visions.
If you have been to those three Gaudi sites already and want something slightly off the beaten path, I highly recommend Casa Vicens (tickets available online here, but they usually don’t sell out). Casa Vicens is one of Gaudi’s earlier houses. It has a colorful Moorish design, so the rooms are much more fun to look at and take pictures in than the more popular houses listed above, and I actually enjoyed this one much more.
Day 3: Travel to San Sebastian
There is a direct train from Barcelona to San Sebastian. When we traveled, the direct train took 5.5 hours, but there are some direct trains that take longer. Check the Renfe website for the most updated timetables to confirm which direct trains are available per day and buy tickets. The train station is about a 20 min walk from the old town.
Get an overview of San Sebastian by traveling up the funicular to the Monte Igueldo lookout. The lookout gives a spectacular view of La Concha Bay below. It’s basically the postcard image of San Sebastian. There is also a small amusement park at the top of Monte Igueldo that has some small roller coasters and other rides, bumper cars, carousel, and a small zip line.
How to get there: The funicular station is at the base of Monte Igueldo, at the opposite end of La Concha Bay from the old town. The funicular station is about a 40 minute walk from the old town along the beach promenade, or you can take a bus from the old town to the end of La Concha Bay for a shorter walk.
After all that walking, it’s time for tapas (or pintxos, as they’re known in San Sebastian)! The pintxos bars are the highlight of a visit to San Sebastian and there are some unique favorites at each bar. Some pintxos bars have plates of pintxos displayed on the counter, but you want to go for the cooked to order pintxos on the blackboards or wall menus to get the really good stuff. It can get crowded at peak times, so you just have to elbow your way up to the counter and order from the guys behind the bar. They somehow magically keep track of what you have eaten without writing anything down, and you let them know when you’re all done and pay at the end.
The pintxos bars are clustered on Fermin Calbeton street, San Jeronimo street, and 31 de Agosto streets in the old town. Google maps is pretty reliable for leading you to the right address. La Cuchara de San Telmo was a favorite – definitely don’t miss that one.
Some of our favorite pintxos bars in San Sebastian and their specialties:
- La Cuchara de San Telmo – modern pintxos. The menu is on the blackboard behind the counter. We loved the foie gras, cotxinillo (suckling pig), pulpo (octopus), carrillera de ternera (beef cheeks). But honestly everything on the menu is more delicious than anything you can find in the US (and we live in a foodie area). The two different prices are for half portion vs a full portion.
- La Vina – Basque cheesecake. OMG the cheesecake. We came multiple times a day for this cheesecake, and got some slices to take with us the day we left. There has been a Basque cheesecake boom in the Bay Area, but we haven’t found any that are as good as the original in La Vina.
- Gandarias – classic pintxos. Get the foie a la plancha, solomillo a la plancha (small piece of filet steak), jamon iberico, croquetas de jamon (croquettes).
- Ganbara – on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants List. Their specialty is the Txangurro (spider crab tart). But don’t miss the seared seasonal mushrooms, grilled fresh prawns, and baby squid in its own ink.
- Bar Nestor – legendary tortilla (which is a potato omelette in San Sebastian, don’t expect a taco wrapper). Also known for its txuleta (steak). They only make 2 tortillas a day, so the ordering gets complicated and competitive. This website breaks it down nicely.
- Bar Borda Berri – seasonal pintxos. The menu changes seasonally, but order these if you see them: carrillera de ternera (beef cheeks), Risotto de “Puntalete” con Queso de Idiazabal (risotto with basque cheese), pulpo (octopus), bonito (tuna).
- Txuleta – T-BONE STEAK. This is a restaurant, but you can also order the Txuleta de Viejo by the kilo at the bar if you just want some steak. SO GOOD.
Day 4: Monte Urgull and Concha Beach Promenade
Monte Urgull is the mountain at the end of La Concha Bay that is closer to the old town. A military fortress used to stand on this hill, and you will pass by sections of the wall as you hike up to the castle at the top. Stop at one of the many lookouts along the hike to admire the breathtaking views. There are different paths up the mountain and you could just have a wander. But we followed this route from the tourism website:
How to get there: take the path that starts from Zuloaga Plaza, next to the San Telmo Museum. Wind your way up the path to the summit, and wander around the castle. On the way down, take the path that leads to Paseo Nuevo. You will pass the Battery and the English Cemetary before reaching the Paseo Nuevo. The Paseo Nuevo runs right next to the water and ends at the aquarium. Following this path will lead you to the fishing port next to the old town.
Lunch can be another pintxos crawl to try some new bars or go back for some old favorites. Or, you could check out a Michelin star restaurant. The Michelin stars shine bright in Northern Spain, and going for lunch could be a more affordable way to get a taste. Michelin star restaurants in the area include: Akelarre, Arzak, Martin Berasetegui Restaurant, Amelia, Mugaritz, Alameda, Elkano, and Kokotxa.
After lunch, walk along the Concha Beach Promenade to work up an appetite for dinner.
Day 5: Travel to Bilbao
Spend the morning having one last stroll around the old town and port of San Sebastian. Don’t forget to pick up a slice of La Vina cheesecake for the road!
The bus station in San Sebastian is next to the train station. The bus takes about 1.5 hrs from San Sebastian to Bilbao. There are 2 bus companies that travel this route, Alsa and Pesa. Check their websites for the timetables and to purchase tickets, or you can purchase tickets at the bus station.
My husband is a football fan, so we did the San Mames stadium tour. It is only mildly interesting if you are not a football fan. Another option for the afternoon could be taking a walk in the Doña Casilda Iturrizar Park. It is a nice green space with many walking paths and fountains.
If all that walking has made room for more food, then you’re in luck! Pintxos are plentiful and delicious in Bilbao as well. You won’t go hungry on this trip for sure. La Vina del Ensanche was our favorite in Bilbao – I even took a picture of the menu to remember the name of the Josellinis for future reference.
Some pintxo bars in Bilbao we tried and their specialties:
- Bar El Globo – Gratinado de txangurro (spider crab gratin on toast), Alcachofas de Tudela (artichoke hearts)
- La Vina del Ensanche – Josellinis (jamon, melted cheese, and foie on bread. Had this on repeat.), croquetas de jamon (croquettes), hongos salteados (mushrooms), tempura de esparragos (asparagus tempura), carrillera iberica con pure de patata (beef cheeks with mashed potatoes)
- Irrintzi – crispy apple with peanut sauce duck, marinated anchovy with potatoes, mushrooms, and glazed onions, squid in their ink croquette
- Bar Gatz – bacalao pil-pil (cod fried in olive oil and garlic), tortillas (omelettes with potato, garlic, and ham)
Other pintxo bars in Bilbao I had bookmarked but did not get a chance to try:
- Cafe Bar Bilbao – bacalao pil-pil (cod fried in olive oil and garlic)
- Taverna Txiriboga – croquettes
Day 6: Explore Bilbao
Start the day at the Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao’s iconic museum of modern art. Tickets available online here or can buy them at the counter. I don’t really “get” modern art, but I still enjoyed the creative and fun art installations both inside and outside the museum. Lots of good photo ops for the gram. If you want to go all out and have a fully fancy day, pair fine art with fine dining at Nerua, the Michelin star restaurant inside the Guggenheim Museum.
For a panoramic view of Bilbao, take the Funicular de Artxanda up to a park with a beautiful lookout where you can see the whole city laid out below.
When you get hungry from all that walking, head to the Mercado de la Ribera to refuel. The Mercado de la Ribera in Bilbao is one of the largest covered markets in Europe. You can find a ton of fresh produce there, and there is also a food hall for a quick snack.
For dinner we went back to La Vina del Ensanche for more Josellinis. But if you want to spare your arteries a second round of that cholesterol infusion, other highly recommended restaurants I had bookmarked were Cafe Iruna and La Gavilla Bilbao.
Day 7: Day Trip to Santander
Santander is a 1.5 hour bus ride from Bilbao. The bus station in Bilbao is next to the San Mames Stadium. You can buy tickets on the Alsa website or at the ticket machines at the bus station.
Santander is the capital of the Cantabria region. The landscape of white sand beaches surrounded by green mountains is just stunning. Throw in an elegant castle and you have a delightful day of promenading ahead. To fuel up for all that walking, head to Casa Lita for some amazing pintxos on the waterfront. Casa Lita is run by a Michelin star chef, so you can bet the pintxos are interesting and delicious. From the bus station, Casa Lita is a 15 minute walk away along the harbor (just past the statues of the 4 kids diving into the water).
The Palacio de la Magdalena was the former summer residence of the King and Queen of Spain. The palace is located on a peninsula, surrounded by beautiful gardens with endless views of the ocean. You can feel like a queen by following the path that goes around peninsula through the gardens which makes for a perfectly picturesque stroll. Since it takes about 1 hour to walk from the bus station to the palace, it’s best to take a taxi or uber there.
There is a beach in the Magdalena peninsula, but for a different beach view you can walk to El Sardinero beach. The walk from the Magdalena peninsula to El Sardinero beach is stunning as well. The rocky coastline surrounding the beach gives Mendocino on a sunny day vibes. And the sail boats make you feel like a royal on holiday. Reclining on this beach or strolling on the adjacent beach promenade is a relaxing way to close out the first half of this Northern Spain and Portugal itinerary.
Day 8: Travel to Porto
To get to the Bilbao airport from the city center, take bus line A 3247, which takes around 15-20 minutes. The flight from Bilbao to Porto takes 1.5 hours, but because there is a one hour time difference between the two cities you gain an hour after arriving in Porto. To get from Porto airport to the city center, you can take the metro, or take an Uber. We usually take public transportation from the airport to the city center, but Uber was so affordable in Portugal that it made more sense to Uber from a cost and time perspective.
Porto is built on the hillside next to the Douro river. That same hillside that will give your legs a workout over the next couple days also gives you some amazing views. Porto has maximized these views with various “Miradouros” or viewpoints/lookouts scattered throughout the old town and across the river in Gaia. On the Porto side of the river, make sure to admire the views from the following viewpoints:
- The courtyard behind Porto Cathedral
- Miradouro da Rua Dos Aldas (a short walk from Porto Cathedral)
- Miradouro da Vitória (10 min walk from Porto Cathedral)
Sometime during your stay in Porto you MUST have dinner at Taberna dos Mercadores. It is a tiny restaurant so call for reservations if you don’t want to wait. They serve traditional and regional cuisine but with a modern twist. More importantly, it is insanely delicious. Everyone that we have recommended this restaurant to has said it was the favorite of their trip. (I hope I have not overhyped it now!).
Day 9: Explore Porto
This day of our Northern Spain and Portugal itinerary is a work out. Start at the top of Porto and work your way down, visiting the greatest hits of Porto’s architecture and viewpoints along the way. If you prefer to do more liquid sightseeing, you could skip the sights below and opt for a day trip to the Douro Wine Valley for some locally produced wine tastings.
Clerigos Tower is another fantastic viewpoint in Porto. Unlike the viewpoints listed above, you do have to pay to go up the tower (although the connected church is free). The tower can get congested at the top with everyone enjoying the views so there may be a wait before you can climb the upper stairs. There is a free organ concert at the church every day at noon.
The Lello Bookstore up the street from the Clerigos Tower is famous for reportedly inspiring the setting of Harry Potter. Because of this, it is swarmed with tourists wanting that iconic photo of the curving staircase inside. The line was too long for us, but if you want to take your own photo, be prepared to wait in line and buy a voucher to enter (although the cost of the voucher can be used towards a book purchase). For a free photo op close by, head to the Igreja do Carmo to admire their large tiled facade on the side of the building.
Down the hill from Clerigos Tower is the Sao Bento train station, which has some of the most beautiful azulejos (painted tiles) in Portugal.
If you’re hungry by this point, consider the calorie and cholesterol bomb that is the francesinha sandwich. The francesinha sandwich is one of Porto’s specialties. It is like a croque monsieur sandwich on steroids. The sandwich is stuffed with 3 different types of meat, smothered with melted cheese and a tomato sauce, then topped with an egg. It’s not something you would eat every day if you value your health, but well worth trying (or sharing) once. The Cafe Santiago F serves one of the best francesinhas in the city, and it is a 10 min walk from Sao Bento train station.
Or, for a lighter snack go for some (because it’s hard to have just one) pasteis de nata at Nata Lisboa across the street from Sao Bento train station.
Further downhill is the Palacio da Bolsa (the Stock Exchange Palace), which is known for its sumptuously decorated interior. You have to visit the interior with a 45 minute guided tour. The tours are conducted in various languages and leave every 30 minutes. Best to buy tickets at the counter so you can reserve an English language tour.
For some food souvenirs, the Fabrica do Azeite store nearby has a wide selection of locally produced olive oils and often offers tastings to help you make the best choice. The Meia Duzia store nearby sells uniquely flavored (in a good way) jams in tubes – these jams were BIG hits with our friends. They also offer tastings which was a smart business move because we definitely bought more than we intended to.
Continue down to the riverfront Ribeira district to admire Gaia across the river. Gaia is where all of the port wine lodges are located. The bridge that reminds you of the Eiffel Tower is the Ponte Dom Luis I bridge, which is another one of Porto’s famous viewpoints. The Ponte Dom Luis I bridge has a lower level and a top level. Next to the top level of the bridge is the Jardim do Morro, a garden with an overlook with views of Porto. If you don’t want to hike up, you can take the cable car for an aerial view of the Douro river as it transports you up to the Jardim do Morro. Heading further uphill is the Serra do Pilar Monastery which is, you guessed it, another amazing viewpoint looking back towards Porto.
The port wine lodges in Gaia all offer tastings. Graham’s has a good fancy restaurant (Vinum) with fancy views, so it would be worth the trip up the hill. For drinks with a view, Porto Cruz has a rooftop bar overlooking Gaia and Porto on the other side of the river.
Day 10: Travel to Lisbon
The train from Porto to Lisbon departs from Porto Campanha station, which is about a 10-15 min drive from the old town. Rather than schlepping our luggage through the metro, we took an Uber from our hotel to Porto Campanha station. The train arrives in Lisbon at either Lisboa Oriente or Lisboa Santa Apolonia station. Lisboa Santa Apolonia is closer to the old town. You can buy train tickets online here, which may offer some discounts if purchasing early. The train is direct and takes about 3 hours. The streets in Lisbon are just as steep as Porto, so we again saved ourselves the hike by taking an Uber to our hotel from the train station.
Lisbon is made up of different neighborhoods, each with a different vibe. One of the main things to do in Lisbon is just wandering the different neighborhoods and exploring. Hilly Lisbon is also known for its miradouros, so there are plenty of places to stop for a break with a view. I honestly didn’t love the city of Lisbon itself. There were a lot of hawkers and influencers everywhere, and I felt hassled or jostled all the time. Belem and Sintra are definitely worth a visit though. I suppose I just enjoy the smaller second cities more than the big cities.
The Alfama district is the sailors’ quarter and one of the most photogenic. The Sao Jorge Castle is also in this neighborhood. The castle itself is not that exciting, but paying to visit gives you access to the Miradouro de Sao Jorge which gives you a magnificent view of all of Lisbon since the castle is at the highest point in the city. From the castle, the windy roads lead down the hill into the Alfama district. Don’t miss the Miradouro de Santa Luzia and the Miradouro das Portas do Sol in this neighborhood.
The Baixa district next to the Alfama district is Lisbon’s historic downtown. The Rossio train station is here (with its double horseshoe entrance). You can admire some of Lisbon’s iconic cobblestone streets on Rua Augusta, which connects Rossio train station to the waterfront. If it’s time for more pasteis de nata (when is it not??), then look for Casa Brasileira or Confeitaria Nacional near Rossio train station for your sweets fix.
The Bairro Alto and Chiado neighborhoods are next, located up the hill from the Baixa district. To save yourself the uphill climb, take the Elevador da Gloria funicular. Being uphill, you can bet there are more viewpoints. Don’t miss the Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara, the iconic Elevador de Santa Justa, and the Miradouro de Santa Catarina. If you are on a quest to eat all the pasteis de nata like me, swing by Manteigaria in the Barrio Alto. In the Chiado neighborhood, pop into A Vida Portuguesa for more locally produced souvenirs.
For dinner, make a reservation at one of Portuguese celebrity chef Jose Avillez’s restaurants. His restaurant empire has something for everyone, from casual spots to Michelin star eateries. The ones in Chiado are Cafe Lisboa (more affordable), Cantinho do Avillez (his first restaurant, contemporary Portuguese cuisine), Belcanto (Michelin star), and Bairro do Avillez (a mini food hall with different eating areas).
Day 11: Day Trip to Belem
To get to Belem, take tram 15E from Praca da Figueira the Monastery of Jeronimos (30 min). The church is free to enter, but the cloister requires a ticket (buy online here). When you arrive at the Monastery, look for the line for the cloister. The intricately carved cloister is one of the architectural gems of Belem.
For your daily pasteis de nata, make a stop at Pasteis de Belem for a sweet pick me up. The secret recipe they use comes from the Monastery!
A 10 minute walk away is the Monument to the Discoveries. Walk through the park in the direction of the water and you can’t miss it. There is an elevator inside (requires entrance fee) that takes you to the rooftop of the monument for some aerial views.
The Belem Tower is a 15 minute walk away along the waterfront. The Belem Tower shares the lacey architecture of the Jerominos Monastery and makes for some romantic photos. You can pay an entrance fee to go inside, but there was a long line so we chose to just admire it from different angles outside.
For dinner and a show, consider a fado restaurant where you can enjoy your dinner to the yearning melodies of fado. I had bookmarked O Faia as a fado restaurant option that actually had good food (although it is pricier than the touristy places). We ended up not doing this because the show goes from 9-10:45pm and that was too late for this grandma. Instead, we went to Time Out Market Lisbon, which is a food hall with a selection of the best restaurants and bars in Lisbon all under one roof. The atmosphere is lively and it’s fun to be able to try so many different bites in one place.
Day 12: Day Trip to Sintra
To get to Sintra, take the train from Rossio station to Sintra station (timetable available here). Buy tickets at the station (but note that there can be long lines during peak times). Sintra will be the last stop on the line. After arriving at Sintra station, take bus 434 in front of Sintra station to get up to Pena Palace (get off at the main entrance and not the Lakes/Lagos entrance to save yourself a 20 min walk).
The sights of Sintra are totally doable on your own with these instructions. But if you prefer not to deal with the hassle of booking all the tickets, you can book a day trip tour like this one that will take care of all the logistics for you.
The colorful Pena Palace is the gem of Sintra, so it is not surprising that it is very crowded. Definitely buy your admission tickets online here ahead of time. Buying tickets online also gives you a 15% discount. You do have to select a day and time for your visit. From the main entrance, it is a 10 minute uphill climb to the palace. There is a Pena shuttle bus that you can buy tickets for at the ticket booth to save yourself the hike, but the line for the shuttle bus can be long and you could spend longer waiting for the shuttle than hiking the 10 minutes up to the palace. The admission ticket gives you access to the interior of the palace, but the terraces are where the action is at. From the terraces you can snap photos of the colorful castle from all the angles.
The Moorish Castle is a 10 minute uphill hike from Pena Palace’s Lakes/Lagos lower entry. Buy tickets online here for a 15% discount and to skip the lines. The ruins of the Moorish Castle are the dark knight to Pena Palace’s fairy princess. It is the stereotypical castle that you drew as a child, complete with Lego block crenelations on the wall and towers. To get back to town from the castle, take bus 434 in front of the castle entrance.
After getting back into town, walk 10 minutes to the Quinta da Regaleira. Buy tickets online here. You do have to choose a day and time for your visit. The ticket grants you admission to the mansion and the grounds. The mansion is beautiful, but most people spend the majority of their time exploring the delightful gardens. The dramatic spiral staircase in the Portal of the Guardians is the quintessential photo spot here.
Day 13: Travel to Lagos and Boat Tour to Benagil Caves
The train from Lisbon to Lagos departs from Lisboa Entrecampos station. It is easiest to Uber from the hotel to the station. Buying train tickets online (here) can save you some money. The earlier you buy, generally the cheaper the fare. The train from Lisbon to Lagos is not direct, and requires an easy change of train at Tunes station. The train from Lisbon to Tunes is on the high speed rail. You can select your seat when you book your tickets, and the ride is smooth and comfortable. The train from Tunes to Lagos is a regional train and is slower, more crowded, and less comfortable. But it is worth it to reach the stunning coast of the Algarve.
The highlight of the Algarve is admiring the rocky cliffs and unique coastline of the Algarve from the beaches and from the sea via boat tours. The Benagil Cave is the big draw of this region. There are many boat tour companies that will take you into the cave, but you do not disembark with the boat tours. You used to be able to kayak or stand-up paddleboard into the cave to get onto the beach in the cave, but new regulations have banned this due to safety and environmental concerns. It looks like these regulations are continuing to evolve, but they only seem to be getting stricter so going with a tour seems like the best bet.
The vendors all have tables set up on the promenade on the way to the marina so you can choose which tour you like. Bom Dia and Seafaris are two of the bigger companies. We did the Benagil boat tour with Seafaris and enjoyed it so much that we went back for the Ponta da Piedade boat tour the next day (they might give a discount on the second boat tour!).
The beaches in Lagos have some of the most dramatic coastal views that I have ever seen. To best enjoy all of the views, go beach hopping along the coastline! Praia da Batata is closest to town, next is Praia Dona Ana, then Praia do Camilo, and finally Ponta da Piedade Viewpoint. We made a long hike of visiting each of these beaches, but you can also catch bus #2 to reach these beaches. Enjoy the sunset at the Ponta da Piedade Viewpoint to fully admire this dramatic coastline.
For dinner, you MUST have cataplana at the Casinha do Petisco. This was a recommendation from our B&B host and it did not disappoint. We waited 2 hours for this restaurant and ate dinner at almost 10pm (both things I never do), but I kid you not it was my favorite meal of the trip. Cataplana is a specialty of the Algarve and it is a super flavorful shellfish and sausage stew. You can’t find this anywhere but here, and it is DELICIOUS. It is not fancy, but it is that hearty homey type of food that makes you feel warm on the inside. We only had one night in Lagos so we didn’t have enough time to make reservations. But reservations are definitely recommended since it’s a small and popular restaurant. I would go back to Lagos just to eat here again.
Day 14: Ponta da Piedade Boat Tour then Return to Lisbon
I did not know much about the Algarve when we planned this trip, so I only allotted one night for this region. As soon as I caught sight of this dramatic coastline though I regretted that decision. I have told everyone since then to spend a couple nights here to fully enjoy it. That way you can explore more of the other coastal towns and beaches along this coast. To maximize our time here, we took the latest train back to Lisbon.
This allowed us to do one more boat tour to see Ponta da Piedade from the water. It is a different perspective to see the sea caves from the water, and really allows you to appreciate the power and beauty of nature to create a landscape like this.
After the boat tour, we walked around the town of Lagos one last time before collecting our luggage and heading back on the 4 hour train ride to Lisbon. This time since we were staying in the Parque das Nacoes area we took the train to Lisboa Oriente instead.
Day 15: Fly Home
From the Parque das Nacoes area it’s only about a 10 minute Uber ride to the Lisbon airport. For one last pasteis de nata fix, you can find freshly baked ones at Aloma in Terminal 1 and Confeiteria Nacional in Terminal 2.
Ready to plan your next European adventure? Check out our Switzerland itinerary filled with more amazing views! Or enjoy the holiday spirit in Central Europe with this Central Europe Christmas markets itinerary!
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