Ultimate 2 Weeks Japan Itinerary:

Exploring Hidden Gem Second Cities

Traveled in October 2017

This 2 weeks Japan itinerary is for those who want to venture slightly off the main international tourist trail and experience more of the smaller cities in Japan. These second cities are very popular with domestic Japanese tourists, but still mostly overlooked by international tourists. These smaller cities are less cosmopolitan, but much more charming. There will be less English signage, but that’s okay! The barrier for most people is figuring out how to find these hidden gems when you don’t speak or read Japanese, and that’s where this 2 weeks Japan itinerary shines. This Japan itinerary has all the details you need to discover these hidden gems for yourself. Hop over that language barrier and start getting hyped for your off-the-beaten-path Japan trip!

Japan Itinerary

When to Go

I love traveling during shoulder season. And visiting Japan during shoulder season is no exception. Summer in Japan is hot and humid – it is not the most comfortable weather for sightseeing. Winter can be cold and rainy, and even snowing in some areas. Great winter holiday vibes, but again, not the most comfortable for sightseeing (unless you are used to the snow).

Late spring and early fall are beautiful. The weather is mild, and the nature is at its peak. The Japanese have a talent for celebrating their seasonal local flora. Spring and fall are some of the best times for enjoying these seasonal blooms. You can catch different flower festivals in the spring (the cherry blossom festival being the most famous). And in the fall they celebrate the brilliant red fall foliage. If traveling in the spring, try to avoid the Japanese Golden Week. Golden Week is a VERY busy travel week for domestic travelers, so if you don’t like crowds then best to avoid that time. We traveled this Japan itinerary in the fall and the weather was perfect.

How to Get There

The biggest international airports in Japan are in Tokyo and Osaka. There are two airports in Tokyo, Haneda airport (airport code HND) and Narita airport (airport code NRT). Use airport code TYO to search for both Tokyo airports at once. Haneda airport is much closer to the city center so it is cheaper and faster to travel between Haneda airport and the city center.

The international airport near Osaka is the Kansai International Airport (airport code KIX). The Kansai International Airport serves both the Osaka and Kyoto areas, and is easily connected by public transportation to both cities. There are fewer direct flights to Kansai International Airport from the United States. Especially if you want to fly one of the Japanese airlines (ANA or JAL) to Japan, your best bet for a direct flight is to fly into Tokyo.

Where to Stay

For this 2 weeks Japan itinerary, you will be staying 3 nights in Tokyo, 2 nights in Hakone, 4 nights in Kanazawa, 2 nights in Hiroshima, and 3 nights in Kyoto. Though we prefer apartment or home rentals when we travel, in Japan we mostly opted for hotels for the extra convenience that comes from having front desk staff. English is still not widely spoken in Japan, so it was helpful to have front desk staff who do speak English who could assist with making reservations or help with directions.

Check out my posts on where to stay in Tokyo, Hakone, and Kanazawa and where to stay in Hiroshima and Kyoto for all the details on the most convenient areas to stay in each city for this Japan itinerary. I’ve narrowed down our top picks for hotel recommendations in each city so you don’t have to sift through the thousands of hotels available.

How to Get Around

In Japan, public transportation is king. The high speed rail (shinkansen) connects the biggest cities in the country. There are also rail lines that connect you to all the other smaller cities and villages. Within the cities themselves, there are a dizzying amount of subway lines, buses, and trains that can take you anywhere you need to go quickly and efficiently. Rush hour in the subways and trains can be a crush, so if you’re not used to crowds or navigating a busy train platform then avoid rush hour.

When traveling on the train, take advantage of the luggage forwarding services. Unlike European trains, there is not a lot of luggage storage space in Japanese trains. Using the luggage forwarding services to ship your luggage to your next hotel allows you to travel lighter on the trains.

There are many different rail companies that run throughout the different regions of Japan. You can buy regional rail passes if you are going to be staying in one area during your trip, or you can buy a country wide Japan Rail Pass (JR Pass). With the Japan Rail Pass, you have unlimited rides on most train lines (including the shinkansen between Tokyo and Kyoto), local JR buses lines, and the JR ferry in Miyajima. The JR Pass is available for 7, 14, or 21 consecutive days. If you are traveling between Tokyo and Kyoto and doing some sightseeing in Hiroshima (including Miyajima), then the Japan Rail Pass is worth the cost.

If you are only staying in one area of the country, then it would be more cost effective to buy a regional pass or just pay for individual train tickets. Get a Suica card to pay for local travel on the local trains and subways if buying individual train tickets. Use Hyperdia to check routes and fares to determine if the rail pass would be cost effective. You can filter for JR trains only by deselecting “Nozomi” and “private railway” in the “more options” section of the search.

We did get the 14 day Japan Rail Pass for this Japan itinerary for more flexibility. If you buy the Japan Rail Pass from the official website then you can make seat reservations online right away. You can find authorized sellers that sell the Japan Rail Pass at a lower price, but you would have to wait until you are in Japan to make seat reservations if booking with those authorized sellers. The Japan Travel website is great for searching routes and timetables while planning your itinerary. You can input which type of travel pass you have to optimize search results for the routes covered by the travel pass. They also have an app to use while on the go.

Show Me the Money

The currency in Japan is the Japanese Yen. Unlike many other countries, cash is still very widely used (and preferred) in Japan. While we usually rely mostly on our credit cards when traveling and only withdraw a small amount of cash, that was not the case in Japan. Many of the restaurants and smaller stores prefer cash and may not even accept credit cards.

The easiest way to withdraw cash in Japan is to look for a local 7-Eleven. The ATMs in the 7-Elevens accept international debit cards and are open all the time. (7-Elevens in Japan are magical and deserve a tribute post of their own. We went into one at least once a day – for breakfast, a snack, or cash, and it never disappoints.) Always choose to withdraw cash in Yen for the best exchange rate!

Saving tip: to avoid ATM fees (from the foreign bank and your bank), look for a checking account that offers ATM fee reimbursements. I can personally recommend the Schwab investors checking account and the Betterment checking account for this purpose.

How to Stay Connected

There are three main options for staying connected in Japan. You can use a pocket wifi, an e-sim, or a physical sim card.

The pocket wifi is good for groups that are traveling together who will not be splitting up. Cons are that it is an extra device to keep charged and carry around during the day, and having to arrange for delivery to receive it and send it back. If your phone is not unlocked then the pocket wifi is your best bet for data since you will not be able to change your sim card.

An e-sim is the easiest and cheapest option to have internet data available on the phone right away. You can install the e-sim while back at home, and just toggle it on once you get to Japan. However, you do need an unlocked phone to use an e-sim. The e-sim only provides data and has no cellular service for making calls. Airalo is our favorite e-sim company and we have used it in Canada and Europe without problems. The data packages are surprisingly cheap, and it’s easy to top up more data as you go. You can buy a Japan only e-sim or a regional Asia e-sim if traveling to multiple Asian countries.

The physical sim card is the best option for those who want data and the capability to make local phone calls while in Japan. However, out of these three options it is probably the most expensive. You can find physical sim cards at stores in the airport or order it online for pick up at the airport to start using it right away.

Japan Itinerary at a Glance

Day	Activity	Sleep in
0	Arrive in Tokyo	Tokyo
1	Explore Tokyo	Tokyo
2	Day trip to Nikko	Tokyo
3	Travel from Tokyo to Hakone Enjoy hot springs at hotel	Hakone
4	Hakone Loop	Hakone
5	Travel from Hakone to Kanazawa Explore historic neighborhoods in Kanazawa	Kanazawa
6	Kenroku-en Garden and Kanazawa Castle	Kanazawa
7	Day trip to Takayama	Kanazawa
8	Day trip to Shirakawa-go	Kanazawa
9	Travel from Kanazawa to Hiroshima Hiroshima Castle, Atomic Bomb Dome and Peace Park	Hiroshima
10	Day trip to Miyajima	Hiroshima
11	Travel from Hiroshima to Kyoto Nishiki Market and explore traditional streets	Kyoto
12	Explore Kyoto temples	Kyoto
13	Explore Kyoto outskirts	Kyoto
14	Fly home

Day 0: Arrive in Tokyo

From either Narita or Haneda airport, you can take trains or the limousine bus to get to the city center. Depending on where you are staying, taking the trains may require a transfer. We arrived into Haneda airport at night, so opted for the limousine bus since it provides direct transportation to Shinjuku. The limousine bus takes about 45 minutes to travel from Haneda airport to Shinjuku, although it can take longer with traffic. The train from Haneda airport to Shinjuku requires one transfer. We did not want to deal with navigating a dizzying Japanese train station right after a 12 hour flight.

For dinner, get your first authentic Japanese ramen fix or hop into the Isetan department store basement to find a bento and dessert to enjoy back at your hotel. Nagi Ramen in Golden Gai and Ichiran Ramen are both solid ramen options in Shinjuku.

Day 1: Explore Tokyo

Tokyo literally has something for every interest. From anime lovers and Disney fans to foodies and artists, there are unique activities that you can only find in Tokyo. So exploring Tokyo isn’t really about following an itinerary, it’s about exploring your interests! For some ideas though, here are some popular Tokyo activities. Going to a Disney park is a day in itself. If you want to do more activities than you can fit in one day, then add another Tokyo day to the itinerary or skip Nikko.

As for getting around Tokyo, we found Google Maps to be very helpful because the street signs in Tokyo are hard to find!

teamLAB Borderless and teamLAB Planets

The teamLAB museums are the immersive digital art museums you have seen all over your social feeds. There are two different exhibits in Tokyo, teamLAB Borderless and teamLAB Planets. If you’re trying to choose between the two, Planets is more of a sensory experience (since there are rooms where you walk through water) and Borderless is more of a visual experience (since the artwork plays on visual boundaries). You do need to book timed entrance tickets for both museums online. It is best to buy ahead of time as these tickets can sell out.

Ghibli Museum

Totoro fans will love visiting the Ghibli Museum. It has exhibitions and gardens featuring different Studio Ghibli movies where you can immerse yourself in the world of Ghibli.

Tokyo Disneyland and DisneySea

Even if you are not a Disney fan, Tokyo DisneySea is worth a visit because it is unique and unlike any of the other Disney theme parks. There are rides and merchandise you can only find at Tokyo Disneyland and DisneySea. You must get timed tickets online in advance for each park. And there are some rides that you can only get passes for once you are physically inside the park. You can find blog posts dedicated to Tokyo Disney park strategies to maximize your time there and get on all the rides. But if you are not a Disney superfan you can have just as much fun going on a couple rides and experiencing the atmosphere.

Shibuya Shopping

Shibuya is home to the famous Shibuya crossing and floors of stores to satisfy your shopping desires. For a great view of the action at Shibuya crossing, head up to the Starbucks on the second floor overlooking the crossing. Shibuya is a shoppers delight with stores for whatever you are looking for. The Shibuya Parco and Shibuya 109 malls are for fashion and accessories boutiques. Tokyu Hands and Shibuya Loft are for my crafters – there you will find stationary, art supplies, travel items, and housewares. Don Quijote, Japan’s discount store, is legendary for shopping. It has just about anything you could possibly need – it’s like a Target on steroids. There are often viral make up products from there. And last but not least, for nostalgia head to Tower Records to relive your high school days of browsing for CDs.

Harajuku

The heart of Harajuku is the shopping street of Takeshita-dori. That is the hub of every type of Harajuku street fashion. Even if Harajuku street fashion is not your style, it’s fun to browse and people watch. If you need more content for the gram, Takeshita-dori is also where the famous crepe shops and giant fluffy cotton candy shops are. For a cute coffee break, check out Reissue Cafe nearby for the cutest latte art. For a little extra, they can make a foam latte art of an anime, character, or animal of your choice. After all that shopping, head to nearby Yoyogi Park and Meiji-Jingu shrine for a nature break and enjoy the oasis of green in this bustling city.

Tsukiji Market

Since we visited Japan, the famous Tsukiji fish market has split up. The outer market remains in the same site in Tsukiji. However, the inner market, where the fish auctions and some of the famous sushi restaurants were, has moved to Toyosu Market. Two of the most famous sushi restaurants, Sushi Dai and Daiwa Sushi, are now at Toyosu Market. Both continue to have long lines, so make sure to get there early! For a shorter wait, Iwasa Sushi is also popular. If you’re interested in watching a tuna auction, you can book a guided tour that brings you to the auction viewing area and offers a guided tour of the market itself (although reviews seem mixed depending on the guide).

Go Kart City Tour

If you want a more interactive and unique tour of Tokyo, book a Go Kart tour! These tours are like real life Mario Kart – down to the costumes you wear as you whiz around Tokyo in your go karts. You will need an international drivers license to book these go kart tours.

Day 2: Day Trip to Nikko

Nikko is the perfect day trip to escape into nature if you need a break from the commotion of the city. Japan may be known for its metropolises, but don’t sleep on the amazing natural beauty outside of the big cities. There are more waterfalls and lakes to discover in the area around Nikko if you want to extend your stay, but for a day trip I would focus on the main sights below. For maximum convenience, you can book a full day private tour from Tokyo to Nikko with a personalized itinerary.

How to get there: The train from Tokyo to Nikko takes 2-3 hours, so start the day early. With the JR Pass, from Tokyo Station take the JR Tohoku shinkansen to Utsonomiya Station. Then transfer to the JR Nikko line to JR Nikko Station. The train rides back to Tokyo from Nikko can be pretty packed, so make seat reservations to make sure you have a seat on the ride back. From JR Nikko Station, walk one block to the main road and follow that main road uphill for about 20 minutes to get to the shrine area.

Toshogu Shrine

The ornately decorated Toshogu Shrine is a World Heritage Site and one of the must-see attractions in Nikko. There are many different buildings in the shrine, each with beautifully carved and decorated eaves.

Shinkyo Bridge

The red lacquered Shinkyo Bridge is one of the landmarks of Nikko, and it’s easy to see why. The bright brilliant red bridge over the rushing waters with a background of green foliage makes for a picture perfect photo op. You can pay a small fee to actually cross the bridge, or just enjoy the view of the bridge itself for free.

Kanmangafuchi Abyss

The Kanmangafuchi Abyss is a narrow gorge lined with hiking trails and easy walking paths. This was my favorite activity in Nikko because it is such a peaceful, pleasant hike. Another unique feature of the Kanmangafuchi Abyss is the row of small stone statues known as Jizo lining the road leading to the gorge. To get to the Kanmangafuchi Abyss, pass the Shinkyo bridge and follow the river west for about 1 km, crossing another bridge near Jyoko-ji temple on the way.

If you have time before the train ride back to Tokyo, make sure to browse the stores and snack shops lining the main street back to the train station.

Day 3: Travel to Hakone

Hakone is a resort town known for its hot springs and spectacular view of Mt. Fuji. The train trip to Hakone is not completely covered by the JR Pass so you will need to buy the 3 day Hakone Free Pass for part of the train ride to Hakone. The Hakone Free Pass also covers the different sightseeing transportation networks in Hakone.

How to get there: from Shinjuku station, take the JR Shonan-Shinjuku Line to Odawara Station (this section covered by JR Pass). From Odawara station, transfer to the Hakone Tozan line to Hakone-Yumoto station (this section covered by the Hakone Free Pass). The whole trip takes about 1.5 hours total.

You can go to Hakone as a long day trip from Tokyo, but I would recommend staying overnight in the area so that you can enjoy the hot springs at the hotels.

Spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing and enjoying the hot springs at your hotel.

Day 4: Hakone Loop

The Hakone Loop is a popular way of seeing all the sights in Hakone by circling the region using five different modes of transport. The Hakone Free Pass covers all the transportation on the Hakone Loop. This loop includes views of Mt. Fuji (if you’re lucky) and volcano activity from the ropeway and a relaxing cruise on a lake. You can go clockwise or counterclockwise to complete the loop. The counterclockwise direction is most popular. So if you are visiting on a busy day, then it may be worthwhile to consider going in the opposite direction for fewer lines.

How to get there: from Hakone-Yumoto station take the Hakone Tozan Railway towards Gora (40 min) to start the loop. Once you’re in the Hakone Loop, the connecting stations to the next mode of transportation are all linked together and pretty easy to find.

Hakone Open Air Museum

The Hakone Open Air Museum is steps from the Chokoku No Mori Station, which is the last stop before Gora. This open air art museum is well worth a stop. Even if you’re not an art lover usually, the giant sculptures sprinkled around the garden make for an enjoyable morning walk. It is cheapest to buy tickets online on the website. If you prefer to buy tickets on site, check the website for a discount QR code that may give you 100 yen off per ticket, or show your Hakone Free Pass for a discount.

Hakone Tozan Cablecar

The Hakone Loop continues from Gora with a cable car ride. To get to Gora from the Hakone Open Air Museum, either take the train one more stop to Gora, or walk 10-15 minutes. In Gora, find the Hakone Tozan cable car station next to the train station. The short 9 minute cable car ride takes you from Gora to Sounzan station, which is where the next mode of transportation on the Hakone Loop awaits. On the way up, you can stop at Gora Park, a nicely manicured park nestled on the mountainside.

Hakone Ropeway

On a clear day, the Hakone Ropeway has a beautiful view of Mt. Fuji. The Hakone Ropeway takes you from Sounzan to Togendai Lake Ashi. Even if Mt. Fuji is hiding the day you visit, you can still see volcanic activity along the Ropeway. You have to transfer ropeways at Owakudani. At Owakudani you have the option to take a short walk to see the steam vents of the volcano, but that requires advance booking. You can also try eggs boiled in the sulfurous steam vents from local vendors here. If the sulfur fumes are too strong, just board the next ropeway to continue on to Togendai Lake Aishi.

Lake Ashi Cruise

The next leg of the Hakone Loop is a cruise on Lake Ashi aboard a pirate ship. A pirate ship cruise is pretty random, but that’s Japan for you. If the weather is on your side, you can also catch views of Mt. Fuji from a different perspective while on the lake. Even if Mt. Fuji visibility is poor, the lake cruise is still a peaceful way to enjoy the views of the lake and the surrounding mountains. The cruise stops at Hakone-machi or Moto-Hakone. Both are great places to stop for lunch. We found a delicious soba noodle restaurant right near the port at Hakone-machi, but pop into whichever restaurant looks yummy to you!

Hakone-machi and Moto-Hakone are about 20-30 minutes walk apart. The walk itself is an attraction because there is an Ancient Cedar Avenue along the way. From Moto-Hakone you can take a bus back to Hakone-Yumoto.

After all that walking, treat yourself to a kaiseki dinner at your hotel. Most hotels in Hakone will offer this, but may require booking ahead.

Day 5: Travel to Kanazawa

The trip from Hakone to Kanazawa takes about 4 hours total, and requires some back tracking via Tokyo. This train trip will use both the Hakone Free Pass and the JR Pass. From Hakone-Yumoto station, use the Hakone Free Pass to take the train to Odawara Station. From Odawara Station, take the Shinkansen Kodama to Tokyo Station, then transfer to the Shinkansen Hakutaka to Kanazawa. The JR Pass covers these Shinkansen rides.

After that long train ride, a walk around Kanazawa is perfect for stretching your legs. Spend the afternoon exploring some of the atmospheric and beautifully preserved historic districts in the city. Google Maps is a lifesaver again for navigating on foot or by public transportation around Kanazawa.

Nagamachi Bukeyashiki District

Kanazawa is known for its well-preserved Edo era architecture. The Nagamachi Bukeyashiki district is one example of that. This district was once home to middle and upper class samurai. To see how the samurai lived, you can enter the Nomura family samurai house for a small fee.

Higashi Chaya District

The Higashi Chaya district is another area where you can admire beautifully preserved architecture. This district is home to traditional teahouses where geisha perform, and you’ll often see tourists dressed in rented kimonos taking photos here. There are two teahouses along this street that are open to the public, the Shima Teahouse and Kaikaro Teahouse. Another popular store in this area is Hakuichi, which specializes in gold leaf products. Gold leaf products are a specialty of Kanazawa. Browse the store and discover the variety of things you never knew could be made with gold leaf. You will also find many cafes with treats adorned with gold leaf, from gilded soft serve ice cream to cakes. I don’t know that the gold leaf adds anything to the flavor of the food, but it is great for the photo op!

Kazuemachi Chaya District

The Kazuemachi Chaya District lies across the river from the Higashi Chaya District. While it is another teahouse district, its location next to the river makes it a prime location for taking photos.

For lunch and dinner, take your pick from this great list of places to eat in Kanazawa. During our time in Kanazawa we tried Jiyuken, Curio Espresso, Kanazawa Maimon Sushi, and an ochazuke restaurant in Ajiwai Koji Dining Street, and they were all delicious!

Day 6: Kenroku-en Garden and Kanazawa Castle

Kenroku-en Garden

The Kenroku-en Garden is considered to be one of the three most beautiful gardens in Japan. In a country that prides itself on beautifully manicured gardens, that distinction is pretty impressive. This stunning and peaceful garden is an enjoyable stroll in any season. You will find photo ops in every corner.

Kanazawa Castle

Across from the Kenroku-en Garden, the Kanazawa Castle is another one of Kanazawa’s landmarks. The castle itself is not original and is a restoration after many fires. But the gleaming white facade is still beautiful, especially during cherry blossom season. The castle grounds are free to visit, but you do have to pay a small fee to enter the turrets and storehouse buildings.

Day 7: Day Trip to Takayama

Takayama is known for its beautifully preserved historic old town. Walking through the charming timbered old town transports you back in time, especially when you consider that some of these shops have been in business for centuries. One of the highlights of these shops were the delicious skewers of Hida beef. Kobe beef gets all the glory in the United States, but don’t sleep on the Hida beef from this region!

How to get there: from Kanazawa station take the Shinkansen Hakutaka to Toyama. At Toyama, transfer to the Limited Express Hida to Takayama. The JR Pass covers the entire trip and takes about 2 hours.

Takayama Morning Markets

I love a local farmers market, and the Takayama Morning Markets are the Japanese equivalent. You can find one of these morning markets along the Miyagawa River between Yayoi Bridge and Kaji Bridge. The stalls sell a variety of local fresh produce, locally produced souvenirs, and local snacks. Its location along the river is also picturesque, and you will often find kiddos at the riverside feeding the colorful carp in the river.

Sanmachi-Suji

Sanmachi-Suji is the historic old town of Takayama. It is made up of three charming wooden building-lined streets: San-no-machi, Ni-no-machi, and Ichi-no-machi. Here is where you will find traditional shops selling Hida beef, mitarashi dango, and centuries-old sake breweries. We basically snacked our way down this street for lunch and it was wonderful. The shops will usually have an area in the front where they barbecue the beef skewers and mitarashi dango, so just follow your nose and look for the lines. Besides the delectable barbecue Hida beef skewers, don’t miss the Hida beef nigiri at Sakaguchiya. They have 3 set choices with a photo menu, so it makes ordering easy.

Kusakabe Heritage House

The Kusakabe Heritage House is a museum that gives you a glimpse of what living in these historic houses was like. Besides seeing the unique structure of the house, you can also see some local crafts and artifacts displayed in the different rooms of the house. Note that you do have to go up a steep ladder to access part of the house.

Takayama Matsuri Yatai Kaikan Museum

Takayama is home to some of the best traditional festivals in Japan. A big part of these festivals are the festival floats that parade down the narrow streets. Even if you’re not visiting Takayama in April or October when the festivals take place, you can admire the artistry of a couple of the ornate festival floats on display at the Takayama Matsuri Yatai Kaikan museum.

Day 8: Day Trip to Shirakawa-go

Shirakawa-go is a charming mountain town famous for its beautifully preserved traditional thatched-roof houses. When you get your first glimpse of the village, it feels like you have been transported to a fairy tale. Many of the houses in the village are now open to the public as museums, and it is fun to pop into each one to see what everyday life was like living in these unique structures.

How to get there: from Kanazawa station, take the Nohi bus to Shirakawa-go. The trip takes about 75 minutes. The JR Pass does not cover this bus ride, so buy tickets online or at the bus station. The time table is available on the website (if leaving from Kanazawa, look at the second timetable. The first time table will be for the return trip from Shirakawa-go Dep. to Kanazawa). The bus leaves from Kanazawa station west exit platform 4 and drops you off in Shirakawa-go across the river from the village.

Get a Panoramic View

For the best panoramic view of Shirakawa-go from above, walk up to the Ogimachi Castle Observation Point. There is a path from the village that leads up to this viewpoint. The 10-20 minute easy walk up and down to the viewpoint offers more stunning views of the village. But for those with mobility issues, there is a paid shuttle bus that goes between the viewpoint and Wada House in the center of the village.

Explore the Thatched-Roof Houses

The Gassho-zukuri Outdoor Museum, Wada House, Kanda House, Nagase House, and Binen-Yumeromu Museum are all open to the public. There are separate admission fees to each of these houses, and the interiors are pretty similar, so it is usually enough for most visitors to tour one or two. The entire village is completely picturesque and you’ll find yourself snapping photos of these iconic houses every couple steps.

Enjoy Local Food Specialties

You can find unique regional specialty foods in just about every village in Japan, and Shirakawa-go is no exception. Warm up after all that walking with a comforting bowl of soba. There are a couple small soba restaurants in the center of town. It’s amazing how something so simple could be so rich and flavorful – sipping that soba broth was like getting a hug from the inside. Another specialty in Shirakawa-go is miso and pork cooked over mulberry leaves. And for a sweet treat, look for some of the shops selling gohei-mochi (grilled mochi with miso glaze) or soft serve.

Day 9: Travel to Hiroshima

How to get there: The trip from Kanazawa to Hiroshima is a relatively long one at 4.5 hours, so get your bentos and snacks prepped for the long train rides. From Kanazawa station, take the Ltd. Express Thunderbird 14 to Shin Osaka. At Shin Osaka, transfer to the Shinkansen Sakura 555 to Hiroshima. The entire trip is covered by the JR Pass.

Spend the afternoon exploring the sights in Hiroshima. The sights in Hiroshima are connected by the Hiroshima sightseeing loop bus, which is covered by the JR Pass.

Hiroshima Castle

The Hiroshima Castle is a reconstruction of the original and the interior is now a museum about Hiroshima and the castle’s history. There are five stories to the main keep of the castle, and some fun samurai exhibits inside. The castle grounds are free, but there is a fee to enter the main keep.

Atomic Bomb Dome and Peace Park

Hiroshima’s Atomic Bomb Dome and Peace Park are the main attractions in this city. We’ve all seen the photos, but there is something moving about actually being there and witnessing the power and destruction of war. It’s a moving reminder of the cost of human lives and suffering as a consequence of conflicts.

Okonomiyaki

Okonomiyaki is a Hiroshima specialty and a must try. This soul food is warm, filling, and savory, and hits just right after a day of walking.

Our favorite okonomiyaki was from a small restaurant called Hassei. It’s a cozy little restaurant and it’s popular, so reservations are recommended. We didn’t get in the first night we walked by, but were able to make reservations for the following night.

You will be sure to find a seat at one of the okonomiyaki restaurants in Okonomimura, or Okonomiyaki village. This is a building that is filled with 24 different counter-style okonomiyaki restaurants spread out over 2 floors of the building. You’ll know you’re at the right building when you see the stairs at the entrance decorated with a painting of cute cartoon okonomiyakis. Each restaurant is a little different and has slightly different specialties, but all are delicious. Some of the most popular are Momotarou, Hassho, and Takenoko.

Day 10: Day Trip to Miyajima

Miyajima is a small island off the coast of Hiroshima, best known for its iconic floating red torii gate, its shrine, and the deer that wander freely around the island.

How to get there: from Hiroshima station take the JR Sanyo line to Miyajimaguchi station (25 min). Then walk to the ferry pier and take the JR ferry to Miyajima (10 min). Time tables for the JR ferry are available on the website. The entire trip is covered by the JR Pass.

Miyajima is easily walkable, and none of the sights are too far from each other. For maximum efficiency, this is the route we took to see all the sights in one day.

Itsukushima-jinja Floating Shrine

Turn right from the ferry terminal and follow the waterfront for about 10 minutes to get to the Itsukushima-jinja Floating Shrine. You’ll find yourself making many stops along the way for photo ops with the floating torii gate in the background. The Itsukushima-jinja Floating Shrine and its floating torii gate are the highlights of Miyajima island. High tide is when the torii gate appears to be floating in the water, but its fun to visit during low tide as well for the opportunity to walk out to the base of the torii gate. This shrine is one of the most visually unique in Japan, and is also one of the most culturally important shrines in the country so it does get pretty crowded.

Senjokaku Pavilion

The Senjokaku Pavilion is famous for its striking red five-storied pagoda. This pavilion makes for a great photo op, especially during cherry blossom season or fall foliage season.

Omotesando Shopping Street

If you’re ready for souvenirs and lunch, then head to Omotesando shopping street. Most of the restaurants and souvenir shops are clustered on this street. Miyajima is known for its grilled oysters, maple cakes, and rice paddles. A popular place for oysters in Miyajima is Yakigaki no Hayashi, but be prepared for a line if you go during peak lunch hours.

Momijidani Park

After lunch, head to Miyajima’s other landmark, Mount Misen. Momijidani Park is a peaceful park at the base of Mount Misen. It’s known for the many maple trees planted in the park. It is especially striking in the fall, when the red maple leaves beautifully complement the park’s vibrant red bridges.

Miyajima Ropeway to Mount Misen

Mount Misen is the highest peak on Miyajima. On a clear day, there are stunning views of the sea, and you may even be able to see as far as Hiroshima. There are some hiking trails with great views on Mount Misen. But to decrease your hiking time, you can take a 20 minute ride on the Miyajima Ropeway up near the top of the mountain. However, from the upper ropeway station, it is still a 30 minute walk up to the summit where the observation platform is. You can buy a one way or roundtrip ticket for the ropeway.

Daisho-in Temple

For a downhill hike with great views, you can walk from the summit of Mount Misen down to Daisho-in Temple. This trail is the least steep of the three hikes on Mount Misen and offers the best views. This hike takes a little over an hour, maybe more if you stop for many photos along the way.

Day 11: Travel to Kyoto

How to get there: from Hiroshima station, take the Shinkansen Sakura to Shin Kobe and transfer to the Shinkansen Hikari to Kyoto. The trip takes about 2 hours and is completely covered by the JR Pass.

Kyoto is often considered the heart of traditional Japanese culture. There are less flashing lights and high rises, and more ancient shrines and preserved historic neighborhoods in Kyoto. One of the best things to do in Kyoto the first time you arrive is just wander the different neighborhoods and soak up the serene atmosphere.

Nishiki Market

I love a local market, and while Nishiki Market is pretty touristy, it is still fun to wander and have a snack. You can find stalls selling all kinds of snacks in the market, from fluffy tamagoyaki and fresh sushi to crunchy senbei rice crackers and chewy mochi. For a more in depth visit, book a Nishiki market tour with a guide!

Ninen-zaka and Sannen-zaka

The cobblestoned Ninen-zaka and Sannen-zaka are prime examples of Kyoto’s preserved historic streets. The streets are lined with traditional buildings housing souvenir shops, sweets shops, and restaurants. For a traditional tea ceremony experience, book a tea ceremony at the Flower Teahouse in Ninen-zaka.

Pontocho Alley

In a city of beautiful streets, Pontocho Alley is considered to be one of the most beautiful. This old-fashioned street is lined with traditional shops and restaurants. Visiting in the evenings is when this street really shines and transports you back in time – you might even catch a glimpse of a geisha.

Kaiseki Dinner

Kyoto is famous for kaiseki cuisine, which is a traditional multi-course meal. Each dish and each course uses seasonal ingredients, and is beautifully plated. The meals are not cheap, but if it’s in your budget, there is no better place than Kyoto to experience a kaiseki dinner. Popular options with bookable online reservations are Seiwasou, Gion Kurashita, and Kikunoi Roan.

Day 12: Explore Kyoto Temples

Many of Japan’s most famous temples and shrines are in Kyoto. It would take days to visit them all, but these are the highlights. While these temples are places of worship for the Japanese, most tourists visit the temples and shrines to enjoy the tranquil gardens. Visiting them in this order minimizes your backtracking around the city.

Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion)

Despite the name, Ginkaku-ji is not actually covered in silver. However, it IS a lovely beautiful pavilion nestled in a unique Japanese garden. There is a walking path that brings visitors around the garden to enjoy the views.

Philosopher’s Path

The Philosopher’s Path is known for its cherry blossoms, but is a pleasant stroll at any time of the year. This stone path runs next to a canal so you have the soothing sounds of trickling water following you as you walk. The path connects Ginkaku-ji and Nanzen-ji temple, and takes about 30 minutes to walk between the two.

Eikando Zenrinji Temple

If you are visiting in the fall, then the Eikando Zenrinji Temple is worth a stop along the Philosopher’s Path. The Eikando Temple is famous for its fall colors, when the trees in the temple garden turn a brilliant red. They also illuminate the fall foliage at night for a different perspective.

Nanzen-ji Temple

Nanzen-ji Temple is also famous for the fall foliage in its gardens. It is a large complex with many smaller sub-temples. The complex grounds are free to enter, but there is a fee to enter each temple. There is also a tranquil tea room where you can enjoy a nice cup of tea with a small Japanese sweet while admiring the views of the garden and waterfall. If you had to pick one place to pay an entrance fee in this complex, my vote is the tea room.

Kiyomizudera Temple

Kiyomizudera Temple is one of the most famous and popular temples in Kyoto. The dramatic terrace jutting out on the hillside is a popular photo spot, and also gives sweeping views of Kyoto and the foliage below. If visiting during cherry blossom season or fall foliage season, check if the temple is holding special events where they illuminate the trees at night. The temple is also famous for its shrine dedicated to the deity of love and matchmaking, which makes it a popular site for young people to visit to pray for love. The streets approaching Kiyomizudera Temple are lined with stores and restaurants catering to tourists and temple pilgrims looking for a souvenir or a snack.

Fushimi Inari-Taisha Shrine

The Fushimi Inari-Taisha Shrine is one of those places that became a tourist attraction because of social media. While it is an important Shinto shrine, the main reason most foreign tourists visit is to get a photo with the thousands of vermilion torii gates that stretch up the mountain behind the shrine.

Pro tip: most of the tourists congregate at the beginning of the torii gates. If you want a photo without a million tourists behind you, just walk a little further up the hill and the crowds will start to thin.

How to get there: take the JR Nara line train from Kyoto Station to JR Inari Station (5 min). The shrine is just a short walk from the station.

Day 13: Explore Kyoto Outskirts

This day will cover some of Kyoto’s top sites that are slightly further away from the center of town.

Nijo Castle

Nijo Castle is a former imperial palace and a World Heritage Site. Besides the ornately decorated palace rooms, the castle also has beautiful gardens.

How to get there: from Kyoto Station, city bus numbers 9 or 50 stop in front of the castle.

Kinkaku-ji Temple (Gold Pavilion)

Unlike the Silver Pavilion, the Gold Pavilion actually is covered in gold. This striking golden pavilion sits at the edge of a small pond and is a popular photo spot.

How to get there: from Nijo Castle, walk to Nijo Station and take the JR Sanin line one stop to Enmachi Station. Exit Enmachi Station and look for the Nishinokyo Enmachi bus stop to take bus #205 to the Kinkaku-ji bus stop.

Arashiyama Bamboo Forest

The Arashiyama Bamboo Forest is another social media star. Just know that the photos of people standing alone in the bamboo groves are probably highly edited, because the groves are extremely popular and it is difficult to get a photo without people in the background.

How to get there: from Kinkaku-ji, take bus #205 back to Enmachi Station. At Enmachi Station, take the JR Sanin line train to Saga-Arashiyama Station. The bamboo groves are about a 5-10 minute walk from Saga-Arashiyama Station.

Ready to explore Japan? Start planning your trip and don’t forget to book your accommodations!