Unique 12 Day Japan Itinerary: Local Hidden Gems Beyond Kyoto

Traveled in May 2026

If you’re looking to get out of the tourist crowds in Kyoto and Osaka, then this 12 day Japan itinerary is perfect for you! Don’t get me wrong – Kyoto is beautiful and every visitor to Japan needs to experience the beauty of its temples and picturesque streets at least once. But on this trip, we were looking to explore outside of Kyoto and Osaka while using these two cities as a base. We traveled with our preschooler, so this itinerary has many kid-friendly activities. But, we thoroughly enjoyed all of these activities even as adults! So it would completely work for any travelers looking to explore hidden gems outside Kyoto and Osaka. Getting outside the major cities to explore smaller castle towns, quiet beach cities, off-the-beaten-path shrines, and scenic natural landscapes was the perfect way to escape the crowds and experience a more local side of Japan.

12 day japan itinerary: kumano nachi taisha

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Disclaimer: Information is accurate as of the time of writing. Please always double check official resources for updated information in case of any changes!

12 Day Japan Itinerary

12 day japan itinerary

When to Go

I love traveling during shoulder season, especially when we’re visiting busy cities like those in Japan. Asian metropolises tend to be much more densely populated than most U.S. cities. So even if you’re used to city life at home, the sheer number of people in Japanese cities can feel overwhelming. That’s even more true if city living isn’t your norm, or if you’re traveling with kids. Visiting during less busy times means more breathing room, shorter lines, and a more relaxed experience.

12 day japan itinerary: hikone main street
Empty streets in Hikone in mid-May

Late spring and late fall are the sweet spots for visiting Japan. During that time, there is a balance of mild weather and lighter crowds. That’s because early spring is packed for cherry blossom season, summer is hot and humid, September brings a higher chance of heavy monsoon rains, and winter can be cold and snowy. Personally, I prefer visiting in mid-May, just after Golden Week, or October to November for the best mix of weather and crowd levels. We did this 12 day Japan itinerary a couple days after Golden Week. Since it was still early in beach season, the coastal areas weren’t too crowded, but it was warm enough to actually go in the water. And because our itinerary was mostly day trips beyond Kyoto and Osaka, the trip never felt overwhelmingly busy or touristy.

Times to Avoid:

If traveling in the spring, try to avoid the Japanese Golden Week. Golden Week in Japan is a series of national holidays that occur close together in late April and early May. Most Japanese end up taking the whole week off, so Golden Week is a VERY busy travel week for domestic travelers and some businesses may be closed. So if you don’t like crowds and high prices, then it’s best to avoid that time.

How to Get There

Most direct flights from the United States fly into Tokyo rather than Osaka, especially if you want to fly JAL or ANA. There are two airports in Tokyo, Haneda airport (airport code HND) and Narita airport (airport code NRT). Use airport code TYO to search for both Tokyo airports at once. Haneda airport is much closer to the city center. Which makes it cheaper and faster to travel between Haneda airport and the city center. It’s more convenient to fly into Haneda airport, but there is often more availability and cheaper flights to Narita airport.

United Airlines does fly direct to/from Osaka. The larger international airport in the Osaka/Kyoto region is the Kansai International airport (airport code KIX). The Itami Airport (airport code ITM) is now mostly for local flights. For example, you may fly out of ITM to Narita for your connecting flight home.

When we’re traveling with our kid, we try to minimize layovers for a smoother travel day. For this trip, we flew into Tokyo Narita to take advantage of the cheap fares from Zipair. On the way home, we flew out of Itami and had a short layover in Tokyo Narita before heading home.

Booking tip: certain flight searches like Kayak, Skyscanner, or Google flights allow you to set price trackers that will alert you when the price of your flight changes. I never book a flight without tracking prices first because there is no better feeling than snagging a good deal! And if you book your flights with a travel credit card like the Chase Sapphire card, the card usually includes some travel insurance protections (like lost luggage reimbursements, trip delay reimbursements, or trip cancellation insurance) to save you the cost of buying extra travel insurance. Use my contact form if you’re looking for a credit card referral with bonus sign up points!

Bonus Booking tip: sign your kiddo up for frequent flyer accounts with airlines to start earning airline miles for them! Most airline miles do not expire for minors so your kiddo will thank you later.

Use Visit Japan Web to Clear Customs Faster:

Visit Japan Web is a website created by the Japanese government that allows visitors to input their immigration and customs information online ahead of time. After inputting your information, you get a QR code that you can scan at the airport to clear immigration. While waiting for your baggage, look for the machines near the luggage carousels where you can scan your QR code again to fill out your customs declarations. You can also use the website to create a QR code for tax-free shopping.

Where to Stay

For this 12 day Japan itinerary, we stayed 2 nights in Tokyo, 2 nights in Kyoto, 2 nights in Shirahama, 1 night in Kii-Katsuura, and 4 nights in Osaka. We forwarded our large luggage from our Tokyo hotel to our Osaka hotel so that we only had to manage our carry-on size luggages on the trains in the Wakayama area.

When traveling with our kid, I always prioritize convenience to transportation. I did a ton of research to find the best areas and hotels that were the perfect combination of convenient to transportation and family-friendly, and I was really happy with the options that we chose! Even without kids, these hotels were very close to my idea of an ideal stay, and I’d happily book them again.

Where to Stay in Tokyo

I prefer to stay near Tokyo Station for convenience to easy food options and transportation. See my post on where to stay in Tokyo with kids for more details, but here are our favorite family-friendly hotels near Tokyo Station:

  • Hotel Metropolitan Tokyo Marunouchi ($$) – where we stayed both trips with our kid! The location directly connected to Tokyo Station is super convenient for food, shopping, and transportation. We always book the train view rooms because our kid loves watching the trains go by.
  • Mimaru Tokyo Station East ($$$) – Mimaru brand hotels are so perfect for families because there is so much space, and a kitchenette. It’s like a home rental, but with the conveniences of a hotel, especially a front desk. The only down side is that it’s about a 15 minute walk from the station. If you plan on taxi-ing everywhere, then it’s a great option for families that want more space.
  • Karaksa Hotel Tokyo Station ($) – affordable option in the Tokyo Station area with many different room types to accommodate families of all sizes. Including Japanese-style rooms, quadruple rooms with Western beds, and connecting rooms.
  • Karaksa Hotel Colors Tokyo Yaesu ($$) – same variety of room types, but has an underground connection to Tokyo Station. Also has a lounge with a play space for kids.
  • Oakwood Premier Tokyo ($$$$) – apartment-style luxury hotel. This is a splurge. But these serviced apartments have all the privacy and space of a real apartment with the amenities of a hotel.

Where to stay in Kyoto

For this trip, because we were mostly doing day trips around Kyoto, we stayed near Kyoto Station for transportation convenience.

  • 22 Pieces ($$) – (where we stayed) This hotel is my idea of perfect, with the ideal combination of location, space, and family-friendly amenities! These studio style apartments have kitchens and most of the rooms have 3 beds! They also have a bunch of small kitchen appliances and kids toys that you can rent for your stay. It’s located about a 5 minute walk from Kyoto Station and about a block away from the giant Aeon Mall, tucked away in a quiet residential neighborhood.
  • Mimaru Kyoto Station ($$$) – Apartment style hotel rooms with multiple beds. You get the space and kitchen of an Airbnb, but with the front desk staff and amenities of a hotel. This Mimaru hotel even has Pokemon-themed apartments and apartments overlooking the Kyoto station train tracks, for extra fun for kids.
  • MONday Apart Premium Kyoto Station ($) – More affordable aparthotel option in the Kyoto Station area, but about a 10 minute walk from the station. All the rooms have a kitchenette and dining area, and some even have in room laundry, thouhg the decor feels a bit more basic.
  • Hotel Imagine Kyoto ($$) – A cross between a traditional ryokan and a modern hotel since the rooms have both a western bed and also a tatami mat area. There is a beautiful rooftop garden and also a useful communal kitchen next to the lobby.
  • Read my post on where to stay in Kyoto for more recommendations on where to stay near Kyoto Station and Downtown Kyoto.
22 Pieces – my favorite hotel!

Where to Stay in Shirahama

Most people come to Shirahama for the beach. So the best option if you’re planning to spend time on the beach is a beachfront hotel! There are some hotels that are further up the hill, but it’s not very convenient for actually going to the beach. These are the best two beachfront hotels in the area.

  • Shiraraso Grand Hotel ($$$) – (where we stayed) This beachfront onsen hotel has direct beach access, and a playground right in front of the hotel so it is perfect for kids. We got the half board option for ourselves and the kaiseki dinner was such a treat. All the rooms have beach views and were really large.
  • Hotel Sanrakuso ($$$) – Also a beachfront onsen hotel, but it is across the street from the beach. All rooms have beach views, and there are a variety of Japanese and Western style rooms. Some rooms even have an in-room private onsen!
Shiraraso Grand Hotel

Where to Stay in Kii-Katsuura

Most of the nicer onsen resorts in Kii-Katsuura are a boat ride away from Kii-Katsuura Station on an island or further out on the bay. For a complete onsen resort experience, these are the best choices.

  • Hotel Urashima ($$$) – (where we stayed) A sprawling onsen hotel built into a mountain that is full of quirky charm. They are famous for onsens that are built into open caves with ocean views. And a super long escalator to their rooftop terrace that has sweeping views of the bay. The hotel definitely feels dated and past its prime, but if you go in with those expectations it can still be an enjoyable stay just because of the oddities. My husband said it felt like stepping into a James Bond villain’s lair. I would have loved to see it in its heyday.
  • Kumano Bettei Nakanoshima ($$$$) – An onsen hotel located on a private island. Very luxurious, and all rooms have ocean views. Some rooms even have private in-room onsens.
Hotel Urashima

Where to Stay in Osaka

We stayed in the Umeda area near Osaka Station. We loved how convenient it was for transportation and food, and it did not feel as busy or crowded as Namba. Since we were mostly doing day trips from Osaka, staying near the station was very convenient for transportation.

  • Hotel Hankyu Respire Osaka ($$) – (where we stayed) It’s a big hotel and definitely has that more impersonal, business hotel vibe. One benefit for families though is the variety of room sizes. They have triple and even quadruple rooms, and connecting rooms. And one surprise that we did not expect is the rooms overlook the train tracks! The location could not be better though – it’s directly connected to Yodobashi Camera, there is a floor of restaurants just below, and there is a supermarket on the ground floor.
  • InterContinental Osaka by IHG ($$$$) – (where we stayed) It is a splurge, but the rooms are gigantic and feel like an oasis after a day of sightseeing. The beds are heavenly and we had the best sleep of the trip here. The main reason we stayed here is because it is a Chase The Edit hotel and and IHG hotel, so we could stack our Chase Sapphire Reserve hotel credits to offset the cost (if you want a Chase Sapphire referral, contact me!).
  • Minn Umeda North ($$) – One of the few aparthotel options in this area, though it is a 10 minute walk from Osaka Station. The rooms have a kitchenette and dining area, and some rooms even have a washing machine.
  • See my post on where to stay in Osaka for more recs on where to stay for more space in Umeda and Namba.
Intercontinental Osaka

How to Get Around

I would not recommend the Japan Rail Pass for this trip, even though there is one long shinkansen ride from Tokyo to Kyoto. Instead, the real money saver is actually getting the 5 day Kansai Wide Area Pass for exploring the southern Wakayama coast. Just the trip from Kyoto to Kii-Katsuura and back to Osaka makes the pass worth it. And it was even more worth it since we did a day trip to Hikone as well. Make sure to get the Kansai WIDE Area Pass and not the Kansai area pass, as the areas it covers are slightly different. You need the WIDE Area Pass to cover everything on this trip!

  • If the official website does not accept your credit card, the easiest way is to buy the 5 day Kansai Wide Area Pass on Klook.
  • Get the 5 day Kansai Wide Area Pass on the official website to be able to book seat reservations ahead of time. But be warned that this website is not very user friendly to navigate. I stumbled upon the page for making seat reservations by luck.

How to Use the 5 Day Kansai Wide Area Pass:

I purchased the passes on the official website. Kids 5 and under are free when traveling with a pass holder, as long as the kid does not take up their own seat (up to 2 kids are allowed per pass holder). When purchasing the pass, you have to select the start date and which JR West station office you will pick up the actual pass at, and set a pin. After you purchase the pass, you can make seat reservations for individual train rides online by looking up your reservation here using your reservation number and pin, and selecting the option for reservations. You can change the seat reservations online as many times as you want until you pick up your pass. Once you pick up the pass, you have to make seat reservations at the JR West office or using the ticket machines at the station.

To pick up the pass, you will need to present your passport and the credit card you used to pay at the JR West station office. The pass itself looks like a paper ticket that you can insert into ticket gates. Don’t crinkle the ticket or it won’t read in the ticket gate and they won’t replace it! My husband learned this the hard way. You will still be able to use the pass, you will just need to show the pass to the staff at the window every time.

If you did not reserve seats online, the staff at the JR West office can help you make a certain number of seat reservations. If you have more they will direct you to the ticket machines outside. They will provide you with seat reservation tickets – keep these seat reservation tickets because they will be collected at the stations!!

It was actually cheaper to pay for the shinkansen ticket from Tokyo to Kyoto separately and buy the 5 day Kansai Wide Area Pass than to get the Japan Rail Pass. And we used our Suica cards to pay for all other local trains (add it directly to your iPhone through the wallet app by hitting the plus sign, then Transit card, then search for Suica).

  • If you want to buy shinkansen tickets ahead of time from overseas, the easiest way is to book them through Klook.
  • Another option is to book directly through the Smart-Ex website. However, note that it is a little picky about accepting foreign credit cards. I had to try a couple different cards before the transaction processed successfully.

How to Search Train Routes:

You can use Google Maps to search your public transportation routes, and that works pretty well for travel within the cities. If you’re trying to figure out transit between cities though, Google Maps usually gives you the fastest option and the routes do not take into account any rail passes you may have. I usually double checked the routes using the Navitime app. I like that you can select your rail pass so that it optimizes for routes that are covered by the pass.

Pro tip: Set your walking speed to “Pretty Slowly” in the Navitime app to give yourself more time in between train transfers. The default is “Standard,” which only gives you a couple minutes to walk between platforms during train transfers. Trust me, that is not enough because you will get lost. Setting the walking speed to “Pretty Slowly” gave us connecting trains that were spaced further apart so we had enough time fo figure out how to get to the correct platform for the connecting train.

What to Eat

Eating well in Japan with kids is totally possible! It just takes a little more planning, because you won’t be able to just stop into whatever tiny restaurant looks good. And even if you have picky eaters, there are plenty of restaurants in Japan where you’ll be able to find something your kid will eat.

Read our guide on what to eat in Japan with kids for ideas on kid-friendly Japanese foods and where to find them!

Show Me the Money

The currency in Japan is the Japanese Yen. Unlike many other countries, cash is still very widely used (and preferred) in Japan. While we usually rely mostly on our credit cards when traveling and only withdraw a small amount of cash, that was not the case in Japan. Many of the restaurants and smaller stores prefer cash and may not even accept credit cards. Especially in the Wakayama area, many restaurants and stores only accepted cash. So make sure you have some cash for that leg of the trip.

The easiest way to withdraw cash in Japan is to look for a local 7-Eleven or the 7 Bank atm in train stations. The ATMs in the 7-Elevens accept international debit cards and are open all the time. (7-Elevens in Japan are magical and deserve a tribute post of their own. We went into one at least once a day – for breakfast, a snack, or cash, and it never disappoints.) Always choose to withdraw cash in Yen for the best exchange rate!

Saving tip: to avoid ATM fees (from the foreign bank and your bank), look for a checking account that offers ATM fee reimbursements. I can personally recommend the Schwab investors checking account and the Betterment checking account for this purpose.

How to Stay Connected

You absolutely need internet when you are in Japan. We were on our phones all day looking things up, from following Google Maps to figuring out transit or figuring out where to eat. There are three main options for staying connected in Japan. You can use a pocket wifi, an e-sim, or a physical sim card. My recommendation is the E-sim because it’s the easiest and cheapest option.

E-Sim

  • Good For: people with unlocked phones who only need internet data
  • Pros:
    • Easiest and cheapest option to have internet data available on the phone right after landing. You can install the e-sim while back at home, and just toggle it on once you get to Japan.
    • The data packages are surprisingly cheap, and it’s easy to top up more data as you go. Airalo is our favorite e-sim company and we have used it in Canada and Europe without problems. You can buy a Japan only e-sim or a regional Asia e-sim if traveling to multiple Asian countries.
      • Use my referral code ATEASP4988 for $3 off your first Airalo e-sim!
  • Cons:
    • Must have an unlocked phone to install an e-sim.
    • The e-sim only provides data and has no cellular service for making or receiving calls.

Pocket Wifi

  • Good For: groups that are traveling together who will not be splitting up.
  • Pros:
    • Good for phones that are still locked because you can’t change sim cards.
    • If you’re planning on going to Tokyo Disney, then having a pocket wifi might come in handy to ensure you have fast internet to book the passes since cell service might be slow.
  • Cons:
    • It is an extra device to keep charged and carry around during the day.
    • Must arrange for delivery to receive it and send it back at the end of the trip.

Physical Sim Card

  • Good For: Those who want data and the capability to make local phone calls while in Japan.
  • Pros:
    • Will have calling capabilities.
  • Cons:
    • Probably the most expensive.
    • Have to make an extra stop to pick one up. You can find physical sim cards at stores in the airport or order it online for pick up at the airport to start using it right away.

Japan 12 Day Itinerary at a Glance

DayActivitySleep In
1Arrive in TokyoTokyo
2Tokyu Train and Bus MuseumTokyo
3Shinkansen to Kyoto
Kyoto Railway Museum
Kyoto
4Day trip to HikoneKyoto
5Train to Shirahama
Shirahama Beach
Shirahama
6Adventure WorldShirahama
7Train to Kii-Katsuura
Kumano Nachi Taisha and Nachi Falls
Kii-Katsuura
8Train to Osaka
Dotonbori
Osaka
9Day trip to Ikoma
Sanjo Amusement Park
Hozanji Temple
Osaka
10Day trip to Minoh Park waterfallOsaka
11Osaka Castle and Playground
Namba Yasaka Jinja
Osaka
12Fly home

Day 1: Arrive in Tokyo

We flew into Tokyo Narita and arrived around 8pm. So our first night in Tokyo consisted of taking the airport bus to our hotel and going straight to sleep.

How to Get From Narita Airport to Tokyo Station:

Direct, cheapest, and easiest: Airport Limousine Bus (our pick)

Easiest, direct, but most expensive: Private transfer

Direct, moderate expense, more walking: Narita Express

Our Pick: Airport Limousine Bus

There are a couple ways to get from Narita airport to Tokyo Station, but when we’re traveling with our kiddo, we want the least transfers possible. On this trip we picked the Airport Limousine Bus because it’s the cheapest and most direct option, has plenty of luggage space, and dropped us right in front of our hotel. Plus, kids under 6 ride free if they sit on your lap, or you can pay the discounted child fare for their own seat. Look for the “Low cost bus” sign in the airport after exiting customs and purchase tickets at the counter. Buses come every 20 minutes so we did not have to wait long.

The bus ride to Tokyo Station can take anywhere from 75–120 minutes depending on traffic. Since we arrived pretty late at night, we assumed traffic would be lighter, which factored into our decision. We made it to Tokyo Station in just over an hour. However, if traveling during peak rush hour, I would opt for the Narita Express.

Other Options:

  • Private Transfer: If you have a larger family and don’t want to deal with public transportation, another good option is to book a private transfer. This is definitely the easiest and fastest option, and could be cost effective if you have a bigger group.
  • By Rail: The fastest and most direct rail option from Narita Airport to Tokyo Station is the Narita Express. One big plus of the Narita Express is that it has luggage racks, so you can bring your luggage on the train without having to forward it at the airport. We used the Narita Express on our previous trip on our way to Narita Airport when leaving Tokyo. However, one reason we chose not to use it this time was because the platform is a pretty far walk from the main concourse of Tokyo Station. We just didn’t want to walk that much late at night after a long flight, so the airport bus that dropped us right in front of our hotel was a better option this time.

If you arrive earlier, explore Tokyo Station. One big reason I prefer staying in the Tokyo Station area is the convenience! There are plenty of things to see and eat just downstairs in Tokyo Station! We make a stop at the Tomica store every time for a nice Tomica vehicle as a souvenir and to keep our kiddo entertained during the trip (one of our tips for surviving toddler travel!).

12 day japan itinerary: tokyo station character street plarail store

Read our guide to Tokyo Station to find out how to navigate the station and more things to do!

Day 2: Tokyo

One of the things I love about Tokyo is that there’s no single “right” way to experience it. Unlike some cities where everyone follows the same checklist of attractions, Tokyo feels more like a choose-your-own-adventure. There are endless neighborhoods, shrines, museums, food spots, niche shops, themed cafes, shows, and cultural experiences, so no two trips ever look exactly the same. Instead of trying to squeeze in every viral or Instagram-famous spot, I think Tokyo is best experienced by simply following your own interests. Whether that’s traditional culture, pop culture, food, shopping, or just wandering the local neighborhoods.

If it’s your first time in Tokyo with kids, check out our full list of kid-friendly things to do in Tokyo for a starter pack of ideas for what to do on your first day!

On our previous trip to Japan with our kid, we spent a couple days in Tokyo and had done a lot of the tourist stuff in Tokyo like Shinjuku, Disney, and TeamLabs. On this trip, one of our goals was to leave the big cities more and try to explore more of the surrounding areas. So we leaned into our kid’s passion for trains and visited the Tokyu Train and Bus Museum in neighboring Kawasaki.

Tokyu Train and Bus Museum

  • Age Range: all ages!
  • Cost: 200 yen for adults, 100 yen for children 3 and up, free for children under 3
  • How to Get There: from Tokyo Station, take the Hanzomon (purple) subway line to Miyazakidai Station (stop DT12), about 45 min. We somehow got on an express train that skipped stop DT12, so we had to get off at stop DT14 and take the local train back 2 stops. Exit via the North Exit. The Tokyu Train and Bus Museum is directly connected to the train station.
  • Hours: 10am – 4:30pm, closed Thursdays
12 day japan itinerary: tokyu train and bus museum

This train museum was wonderfully uncrowded when we visited on a Monday morning. There are many interactive exhibits, driving simulators, and interactive controllers for miniature trains, which makes it fun and exciting for train lovers of all ages. While the entrance fee is very affordable, you do have to pay extra for some of the simulators and train controllers.

Our kid was still a little too young to be interested in the simulators, but even the free exhibits were very interactive and engaging. My husband enjoyed controlling the speeds of the model trains in the diorama exhibit, while our kid loved climbing into the driver’s seats of the trains and buses on display and enthusiastically pressing every button and lever.

The museum itself is only two floors, so it’s not really a full-day activity. Also worth noting, most of the exhibits were entirely in Japanese, and the staff spoke limited English. I imagine that could make the simulators a little harder to navigate, but the train displays themselves were easy enough to enjoy without needing translations.

If your kid needs some outdoor time to burn off energy before the 45 minute train ride back to Tokyo, there is a small park (Miyazakiochiba Park) just down the street. After leaving the Train and Bus Museum, the park is just downhill on the opposite side of the street. It’s a pretty small park with just a long slide, some swings, and a sand pit. But our kid had a great time on the long slide and burned off quite a bit of energy running up the hill to the top of the slide over and over again.

Looking for places to eat in Tokyo?

I always like to have a list of places to eat organized by neighborhood ready to go to avoid hangry kids (and getting hangry myself). We really enjoyed every restaurant on my list of places to eat in Tokyo! The best part is they’re all local restaurants that welcome kids and have foods kids will eat, without compromising on authentic flavors.

After getting back from the Train and Bus Museum, our jet lagged selves took a 3 hour nap (which probably did not help with our time adjustment). But one thing we learned from our first trip to Japan with our kid is that it’s usually better not to fight the jet lag on the first day. Trying to power through when everyone is exhausted tends to lead to cranky moods and toddler meltdowns, which is not exactly the relaxing start to a vacation you want. Especially with such a major time difference, we’ve found it’s much better to keep the first day light, plan just one activity, and give everyone plenty of time to rest and adjust.

Day 3: Travel to Kyoto

How to Get From Tokyo to Kyoto:

The fastest way from Tokyo to Kyoto is the shinkansen, which takes just under 2.5 hours. For views of Mt. Fuji, choose seats D and E.

If you want to buy shinkansen tickets ahead of time from overseas, the easiest way is to book them through Klook. Another option is to book directly through the official Smart-Ex website. However, note that the website is a little picky about accepting foreign credit cards. I had to try a couple different cards before the transaction processed successfully.

Pro Tip: if you already have your Suica card loaded onto your iPhone, it’s easiest to print out your shinkansen QR code rather than loading it into your Apple Wallet. If both the Suica and shinkansen ticket QR code are active on your phone at the same time, the scanner at the ticket gate may try to scan the Suica card instead which will result in an error. To avoid this, you can temporarily turn off the Suica card by going to iPhone Settings > Wallet & Apple Pay > Express Travel Card, and toggle off your Suica card. You’ll just need to remember to toggle it back on before you need to use the Suica again. I did not want to deal with remembering this in the rush of moving through a crowded station, so I just printed out the tickets (I know, how very millennial of me).

In Japan, the transportation rides ARE the activity for kids. Even for adults, riding a shinkansen is one of those bucket list things you need to do in Japan. It’s fast, punctual, clean, and peacefully quiet. The quiet part can be a struggle for kids. Luckily, our kid ended up napping partway into all of the train rides so it was a great break for us and a nice way to recharge energy for him.

12 day japan itinerary: shinkansen tokyo to kyoto

How to Use Luggage Forwarding

This was our first trip using luggage forwarding services in Japan and it worked like a charm! We packed our expandable bigger carry on size luggage (my favorite luggage) inside of a check in size luggage (we have the medium check in and it’s the perfect size) when we flew to Japan. We shipped the check in size luggage to our hotel in Osaka when we checked out of our hotel in Tokyo and used the carry on size for the middle leg of the trip. This made train travel so much easier because we could just place the carry on size luggage on the overhead rack.

You can find luggage forwarding services in all the train stations. Yamato is a popular company (their logo is a black cat inside a yellow circle). An even easier option is to ask your hotel front desk to take care of the forwarding for you, which is what we did. (Another reason why I prefer staying in hotels to Airbnbs in Japan! Having a front desk is so helpful.) All they need is the phone number for the hotel you are forwarding the luggage to, and they measure the size of the luggage and take care of the shipping process for you (for a fee, of course). I also emailed the Osaka hotel to make sure that they receive forwarded luggage and could store it for us for a few days until we arrived first. It worked seamlessly and they had the luggage ready for us when we checked in.

After arriving at Kyoto Station, we dropped off our luggage at our hotel (which I LOVED), and headed back to the station for lunch. We ate at Pasta More in Kyoto Station, which is a Japanese Italian restaurant. They have English menus, familiar pizzas and pastas for kids and less adventurous adults, and pasta with a Japanese twist for those looking for more local flavors. The duck pasta is a specialty and was very tasty!

Kyoto Railway Museum

  • Age Range: all ages!
  • Cost: 1500 yen for adults, 200 yen for children 3-6, 500 yen for children 6 and up, free for children under 3
  • How to Get There: from Kyoto Station, take the JR San-In Line 1 stop to Umekoji-Kyotonishi Station.
  • Hours: 10am – 5pm, closed Wednesdays and New Years Holidays (12/30-1/1)
12 day japan itinerary: kyoto railway museum roundhouse

The Kyoto Railway Museum is a must do for kids and train lovers of all ages. Our kid had an absolute BLAST here. We stayed until closing and didn’t even get a chance to see the exhibits on the top floor. One of the main attractions here is that the museum has a working roundabout and the opportunity to ride a real steam train. There are also driving simulators and many interactive exhibits. You do have to pay extra for the steam train and the driving simulators, but the fees are pretty affordable. Our kid wasn’t interested in the driving simulators but was beside himself with excitement when riding the steam train.

Other huge hits with kids at this museum are the train-themed playground next to the steam train outside and the indoor Plarail toy train play area. Since we don’t have Plarail tracks in the US, my kid was completely obsessed with building tracks and playing with the toy trains there. The play area is included with admission, so there’s no extra fee or timed reservation required. I could see it becoming a little chaotic on busy days with kids fighting over tracks and trains. But when we visited there were only a handful of kids playing, so there were plenty of pieces for everyone.

Besides the play area, there are train dioramas, trains on display where you can go inside the locomotive, and exhibits about building trains, how they work, and train safety. Many exhibits were hands-on, so there were plenty of buttons to press and levers to pulls. Kids especially loved the train crossing gates that came down periodically and the exhibit where they could purchase their own ticket from a ticket machine and put it through a ticket gate.

One of the coolest things that we just happened to see was the turntable for the roundabout in action at the end of the day. Shortly before museum closing, the museum staff drive the steam locomotive onto the turntable and spins it around to park it away for the night. I am not even a train enthusiast but this was very entertaining to watch. Needless to say, our train-loving kid was enthralled. He plays with a wooden Thomas the Train turntable and roundabout at school all the time, and seeing a lifesize version happening in front of him in real time was mindblowing for him. This was one of those “this is why we travel with our kid” moments.

Umekoji Park

I had planned to visit Umekoji Park next to the Kyoto Railway Museum afterwards, but we spent so much time at the Railway Museum that we did not have time to see the park. There is a fun-looking playground and play structure in the park.

Kyoto Aquarium

We decided to skip the aquarium since we were going to Adventure World later in the itinerary. But highlights of the Kyoto Aquarium are its giant salamanders and dolphin show. Since it’s close to the Railway Museum it’s an easy activity to pair with the Railway Museum for the day, but I would not make a special trip just to the aquarium.

Aeon Mall

If shopping is on your agenda, the gigantic Aeon Mall is just a few blocks away from Kyoto Station. Besides the usual Japanese brands and drugstores, they also have a Babies R Us if you forgot any baby supplies, and a large supermarket in the basement. I was happy to be able to squeeze in some shopping before dinner while our kid had some downtime in the hotel with dad.

We had dinner at Kokekokko, a yakitori restaurant on the 10th floor of the Isetan department store in Kyoto Station. The yakitori was delicious and there were amazing views of Kyoto Tower and the surrounding area. Online reservations are available, but we went early enough that we could be seated as a walk in.

Other kid-friendly restaurants near Kyoto Station I had bookmarked:

  • Kyoto Obuya: ochazuke, located on the second floor of the Isetan restaurant area, just outside the west exit of Kyoto Station. We had dinner here and the broth was super rich and flavorful. Such a comfort meal.
  • Tsukomo Udon Shiokoji Honten: udon near east exit of Kyoto Station
  • Nakamura Shoten Kyoto Ramen Koji Ten: chicken ramen in Kyoto Station ramen alley
  • Kyogamo Ichiwagai: izakaya with reservations online, nice views
  • The Kitchen Salvatore Cuomo Kyoto: italian inside Isetan department store in Kyoto Station, reservations online
  • New Sushi Center Kyoto Poruta: sushi in the Kyoto Station Porta shopping area
  • Tsumugi Cafe: brick toast and coffee 5 min walk from Kyoto Station, opens at 8am
  • Omofu Roastery and Cafe: cake and coffee next to Kyoto Station

Day 4: Day Trip to Hikone

We had already visited the cultural landmarks in Kyoto in a previous trip, which is why we skipped them this time. Kyoto felt much more crowded this time than the last time we visited almost 10 years ago, so we planned to explore more small towns outside Kyoto to avoid the crowds. But if it’s your first time in Kyoto, you really do have to see the sights – just follow our realistic guide to avoid criss-crossing the city!

Hikone (not to be confused with HAkone) is a castle town on the shores of Lake Biwa. It’s less popular than Himeji, which is another castle town in the area. Most of the other tourists we saw in Hikone were local Japanese tourists. There are a couple other scenic towns to stop in on the same train line to Hikone, so it makes for a great day trip. Our plans to see those other towns were sadly scrapped because of a overtired kid meltdown, but I’m including them here anyway so at least someone can benefit from my research!

How to Get from Kyoto to Hikone:

Take the JR Tokaido-Sanyo Line from Kyoto Station to Hikone Station (48 minutes if taking the Special Rapid train). From Hikone Station, it’s about a 15-20 minute walk to the castle area, or a 10 minute taxi ride.

We started our 5 Day Kansai Wide Area Pass on this day and the entire trip to Hikone was covered by the pass.

Eat Omi Beef

Hikone is famous for Omi Beef, which is a type of premium Japanese Wagyu beef. Food in Japan is amazing and I love trying regional specialties whenever I get a chance (regional specialities are one of my must eats in Japan!). In the US we have heard of Kobe beef, but the regional premium Wagyu beef like Omi beef and Hida beef are harder to find outside of Japan (and might be even tastier!).

We went to Omi Beef Noodles Mentakumi Chakapon for a more casual way to experience Omi beef (that our kid would actually eat). And it was delicious! They also have a counter in the front where you can order the Omi beef sushi to go if you don’t want a full meal. If you want a fancier steakhouse-like Omi beef experience, then make reservations at Omi Niku Sennaritei Kyara.

Hikone Castle

  • Age Range: all ages, though kids might be bored and there are some steep steps
  • Cost: different combos with the Genkyu-en Garden and Castle Museum
  • How to Get There: 15 minute walk (or quick taxi ride) from Hikone Station
  • Hours: 8:30am – 5pm, Castle Museum closed 12/25-12/31
12 day japan itinerary: hikone castle

Hikone Castle is a beautifully preserved castle and one of only a handful of castles designated as a National Treasure of Japan. Compared to more famous castles like Himeji Castle, it feels more under-the-radar, and when we visited it was surprisingly uncrowded. Apparently the castle grounds are also a really popular cherry blossom spot in spring.

Full transparency: we didn’t actually go inside the castle. There are quite a few stairs up to the entrance, and we didn’t feel like dealing with carrying a stroller up all those steps. We’ve also been inside a few Japanese castles before and honestly found that the main highlight for us was the exterior and castle grounds rather than the inside exhibits. The castle itself is just so pretty from the outside, especially perched up above the stone walls. If you do make it to the castle, they also have a castle museum that contains exhibits of the family’s treasures (like kimonos and swords) that seem more interesting.

There’s also supposedly a cute castle mascot that appears around the grounds at certain times, but we never saw it. Maybe we visited at the wrong time or maybe the mascot only works on weekends.

Genkyu-en Garden

  • Age Range: all ages!
  • Cost: 400 yen for adults, 150 yen for kids 6 and older, free for kids under 6 (combo tickets also available with the castle)
  • How to Get There: 15 minute walk (or quick taxi ride) from Hikone Station
  • Hours: 8:30am – 5pm
12 day japan itinerary: hikone genkyu-en garden

Rather than going into the castle, we opted to walk around the Genkyu-en Garden instead. It was so peaceful there, and I know I keep saying this, but so pleasantly uncrowded. There is a stunning view of Hikone Castle on the hilltop reflected in one of the ponds in the garden, with the many bridges criss-crossing in the background. There are so many pretty views here.

I feel that as far as tourist attractions go in Japan, gardens can be more engaging and less boring for younger kids than temples or shrines because it’s more open space for them to explore. Our kid had a lot of fun crossing all the bridges at Genkyu-en Garden. And because it’s a Japanese garden with more rock and water features than flowers, we didn’t have to worry as much about keeping him from accidentally trampling flowers.

Konki Park

Adults can skip this, but if you have kiddos who need some play time there is a fantastic playground on the castle grounds about a 10 minute walk away from the Genkyu-en Garden. We were the only family here when we visited on a weekday. There are 2 large play structures, one for older kids and one for younger kids, and a really fun zipline. There is also a rope climbing structure. Our kid loved the zipline and we spent more time here than anticipated (until our kid fell and scraped his elbow and had a meltdown that we did not have an ice pack. Ah the joys of parenting). There is also a bathroom at this playground.

12 day japan itinerary: hikone konki park

Lake Biwa

It seemed like a missed opportunity to go all the way to Lake Biwa and not see it, so we walked to the Hikone harbor. There is a sightseeing boat you can take around the lake from the harbor. Then we headed back to the main street and finished the day with some delicious hojicha soft serve ice cream.

Other Stops on the Way Back to Kyoto

Our kid was an overtired ticking time bomb at this point, so we had to scrap the rest of the itinerary I had planned for the way back to Kyoto. We have learned our lesson not to try to add “one more thing” when traveling with kids. Instead, I’ll include them here as a reminder to go in a future visit (especially during cherry blossom season because the pictures look gorgeous!). These cities are all on the same train line on the way back to Kyoto, so it’s easy to hop off and see the sights, then hop back on the train back to Kyoto.

  • Omihachiman: nicely preserved old merchant town with a pretty canal. Beautiful during cherry blossom season. They also have a ropeway to the summit of Mount Hachiman with views of the town and Lake Biwa. Most of the sights are a 10 minute bus or taxi ride away from the station.
  • Otsu: this town is only 10 minutes away from Kyoto on the train. They have a steamboat lake cruise (reminded me a little of Disneyland) and many famous temples and shrines (like Mii-dera and Ishiyamadera).

Day 5: Travel to Shirahama

Wakayama and the Kii peninsula is known for their beautiful beaches and scenic natural landscapes. It’s also culturally significant because it is the site of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails. In fact, we saw many hikers getting off at different points on the train to embark on this trail. We took the shortcut and used the train to travel between the beach and Nachi Falls, and it was no less scenic.

How to Get From Kyoto to Shirahama:

The Kuroshio express train to Shirahama leaves from Shin-Osaka Station. To get from Kyoto to Shin-Osaka station, skip the shinkansen and take the JR local rapid train instead. It gets you there in almost the same amount of time (23 min) and is completely covered by the Kansai Wide Area Pass (and is much cheaper if you don’t have a regional pass). Enter through the JR lines gates – the local rapid trains to Shin-Osaka usually depart from platform 5.

At Shin-Osaka Station, transfer to the Kuroshio Ltd Express train to Shirahama Station (2.5 hours).

Pro tip: to sit on the ocean side, reserve seats C & D on the Kuroshio Ltd Express. The ocean side is on seats C & D in both directions between Osaka and Kii-Katsuura.

Another big reason we chose to visit this area was so our kid could ride the “Panda Train.” As a bit of background, Adventure World in Shirahama used to be home to several pandas, and since Japan loves pandas, some of the Kuroshio Limited Express trains were decorated to look like pandas too.

Japan is also a country full of serious train enthusiasts, and after watching a YouTube video about the “Panda Train” before our trip, our kid was super excited to ride it in real life.

How to Find the Panda Kuroshio Train Schedule:

The Panda Kuroshio train is a special edition train, so it’s unclear how long they will keep running it (especially now that the pandas are no longer at Adventure World). The Panda Kuroshio train only runs on certain trains every day, and the schedule changes every day. Finding the Panda Kuroshio Train schedule was seriously the most difficult thing about planning this itinerary.

What I learned from JR West is that the Kuroshio Ltd Express numbers 1, 4, 25, and 26 operate as the Panda Kuroshio train daily. There are usually a couple other trains during the day that operate as the Panda Kuroshio. To find out which other trains of the day will operate as the Panda Kuroshio train, it is announced on the JRPandaKuroshio X account the day before at around 6pm Japan time. I even checked with the staff at the JR West office in Kyoto, and they said they don’t know the schedule – it’s only available on X. This makes reserving seats a little tricky, because you have to reserve seats using the ticket machines at the station.

Example of Kuroshio Ltd Express Panda Train X post listing which train numbers will be Panda Trains for the next day

Our hotel (which we absolutely loved) was right on Shirahama Beach, which is located about 11 minutes away by taxi from Shirahama Station. There are a couple bus lines that run between the station and the hotel that take around 20 minutes, but we opted for a taxi because it was a short ride. Note that taxis here are cash only.

  • Kids do not need car seats to ride in taxis in Japan. For extra safety, bring a Ride Safer Travel Vest if you will be taking many car rides – it’s so much more portable than a regular car seat!

There are a couple ramen places on the main street in Shirahama which are good options for lunch. We stumbled upon this cute cafe called “豆の湯” which had good egg sandos and amazing smelling Japanese curry.

Shirahama Beach

Shirahama Beach in Wakayama is the sister beach of Waikiki Beach in Hawaii (there’s even a sign to prove it!). (Note that there is another Shirahama Beach in Shizuoka on the Izu Peninsula, closer to Tokyo. Don’t book a hotel in the wrong Shirahama Beach!) This crescent white sand beach is beautiful, and the waters are really calm, which is perfect for kids. I’ve seen photos of it packed with people in the summer, but when we visited in mid-May it was not crowded at all. The beach is pristine, and there are periodic announcements over the loudspeakers reminding people to keep it that way. This is also the first beach where I’ve seen staff using a frontloader and rakes to keep the shoreline clean from seaweed and other debris. This is a man made beach, with sand imported from Australia, so maybe that is another reason for the raking.

The water in mid-May still felt cool to me initially, so it’s not quite as warm as Hawaii beaches. Our kid still splashed in without hesitation and had a grand time. I loved that our hotel had direct beach access – it made it so easy to walk to the beach and get cleaned up after. And waking up to the beach views from our room was so luxurious. A beachfront stay here felt much more affordable than a beachfront room in Waikiki, thanks to the exchange rate and traveling off season.

Shirahamakaigan Park

Another reason our hotel was perfect for us was because there is a playground right outside the hotel next to the beach. Our kid may actually have spent more time on this playground than on the beach itself! The playground has a boat play structure and an octopus play structure. The octopus was definitely the big hit with all the kids. We met a couple other tourist families at the playground. It’s always heartwarming seeing kids of different cultures playing together.

Kaiseki Dinner

Many onsen resort hotels offer kaiseki dinners that you can book as part of your stay. It’s definitely a bucket list thing to do in Japan and a food experience you can only find in Japan. It can be pricey, but it’s so worth it! A kaiseki dinner is a multicourse Japanese meal using local seasonal ingredients, and it’s always beautifully plated. Many family-friendly resort hotels will also have a kid’s version, if you choose to pay for meals for your kid. We have tried those kids meals before on our previous Japan trip, and our kid hardly ate any of it. Our hotel showed us a picture of what the kids meal would look like, and it didn’t look like food our kid would eat. So this time around, we just ordered him some udon noodles and kara-age a la carte to save money and avoid wasting food.

If you choose not to include the kaiseki dinner with your hotel stay, there are many restaurants on the main drag in Shirahama across from the beach. There is also a large Gourmet City supermarket across the street from our hotel that is open 24 hours which also sells prepared food.

Day 6: Adventure World

Adventure World

  • Age Range: all ages
  • Cost: 1 day admission is 5300 yen for adults, 4300 yen for kids age 12-18, 3300 yen for kids age 4-11, free for kids under 4
    • While you can buy tickets online, the website is in Japanese and I found it confusing. You can buy adult tickets on Klook here. Our hotel had a discount on tickets through the gift shop, so we purchased them there (cash only).
  • How to Get There: take the 101 loop bus (note there are only a few buses per hour on weekdays, pay by tapping your credit card on the reader or with cash) or take a taxi
  • Hours: 10am – 5pm, closed on Wednesdays

Adventure World used to be famous for being a breeding center for pandas (hence all the panda stuff everywhere in this area). The pandas were returned to China early in 2026, so now they have red pandas there in their place.

12 day japan itinerary: adventure world

Adventure World reminds me of a mix of a zoo and Sea World in the 90s, with dolphin shows and animal encounters. I’m always surprised by the animal experiences you can have in Japan, because you can get much closer to the animals than you can in the US. For example, I saw in the brochure that one of the paid experiences is feeding lions.

Attractions included in the admission fee include the dolphin show, the penguin and zoo areas, and the safari train. They also have other rides like roller coasters, a ferris wheel, go karts, and a carousel that you have to pay extra for. Indoors, they have a play area for kids that our kid spent a good amount of time in (also paid), which was a nice break for us. There are multiple cafes serving cute animal-themed food. We went on a weekday and it was mostly school groups there, so there were hardly any lines.

We spent a good couple hours here before heading back to our hotel for some more playground time before dinner. To get back to our hotel, we took the 102 loop bus.

Day 7: Travel to Kii-Katsuura

Nachi Falls and the Kumano Nachi Taisha shrine are a little more remote and off the usual tourist trail because they take a little more time and effort to get there. But that effort is rewarded with some of the most stunning views! The Kumano Nachi Taisha shrine is the end of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail, so you see many hikers there. This is the lower effort way to get to the same views.

How to Get from Shirahama to Kii-Katsuura:

Take the Kuroshio Ltd Express from Shirahama Station to Kii-Katsuura Station (1.5 hours).

Because our hotel was not close to Kii-Katsuura station, we stored our luggage in luggage lockers at the station rather than wasting time traveling to our hotel to drop off luggage. The luggage lockers are downstairs from the train platforms.

Since we arrived around lunchtime, we stopped at Rio Ramen across the street from the train station for lunch. This tiny ramen restaurant seemed packed with locals. The menu was in Japanese but they did have some recommendations in English on a sign board. We used Google Translate to view the menu and order. It was a great bowl of ramen and our son also enjoyed the kara-age! The broth was flavorful without feeling too oily. Note that they are cash only!

Kumano Nachi Taisha and Seiganto-ji Pagoda

This vibrant red pagoda perfectly positioned in front of a waterfall is the highlight of this trip.

12 day japan itinerary: seiganto-ji pagoda

How to Get There:

Take bus 31 from Kii-Katsuura station to Nachisan stop (the last station). The bus stop is in the roundabout area in front of Kii-Katsuura station, near where the foot bath and visitor’s center are.

How to Pay: Board the train from the doors in the back and exit by the doors in the front. The bus accepts contactless credit cards, so you just tap your credit card on the reader. Note that each passenger needs to use a different credit card. Tap when boarding and tap again when getting off. If you want to pay cash, take a ticket from the ticket machine at the back door, and pay the driver at the front door when getting off. There is a tv screen at the front of the bus that shows how much your fare will be based on your ticket number, but I found it really confusing. The credit card is the easiest way to go (just make sure to use a credit card with no foreign transaction fees! Contact me for referrals with bonus points for some cards I recommend). Kids age 6 and under are free if they don’t occupy a seat.

After getting off the bus, follow the signs to walk up the stairs to Kumano Nachi Taisha. There are 2 series of steep stone steps leading up to the shrine (about a 10 minute walk). From Kumano Nachi Taisha, continue on the path to the Seiganto-ji Pagoda (the red pagoda).

Bus Line 31 and Bus Line 32:

Bus line 31 travels from Kii-Katsuura station to Nachisan Station. There are 5 stops in between but these are the ones most tourists would use:

Daimonzaka: this is third stop after leaving Kii-Katsuura station and the beginning of the cedar tree trail of the Kumano Kodo leading to Nachi Falls. There are free walking sticks and a bathroom at this stop, and you see many hikers here. It’s a long hike up the mountain from here, so factor that time in if you plan on starting here.

Kumano Kodo: this is the stop just before Nachi Falls and it’s 1/3 of the way into the cedar tree trail, where the prettiest part begins. If you just want to get a short taste of the Kumano Kodo through the cedar tree forest, you can get off here and walk up to Nachi Falls.

Nachi-no-Taki-Mae: this is the stop right in front of Nachi Falls. Most people take the bus back to Kii-Katsuura from this bus stop.

Nachisan: this it the last stop and the closest to the Kumano Nachi Taisha and the Seiganto-ji Pagoda.

Bus line 32 goes in the opposite direction from Nachisan to Kii-Katsuura Station, stopping at all the same stops.

When we visited Kumano Nachi Taisha, there was a hula troupe performing in front of the shrine. I think they were there for a ceremony, but it added another meaningful cultural element to the visit. From the shrine, we made our way to the main attraction, the pagoda. You really can’t get lost because everyone is walking in the same direction.

After taking our fill of photos from the outside, we went inside the pagoda for a closer view of the waterfall. I was really impressed with how well preserved the pagoda was. The bright red paint was so vibrant!

12 day japan itinerary: Seiganto-ji Pagoda

From the pagoda, we walked downhill to the waterfall itself.

Nachi Falls

The walk down to Nachi Falls feels a bit like a taste of the Kumano Kodo trail. The path is mostly stone steps zig-zagging down a peaceful forest until you reach the large torii gate that marks the start of the path down to the waterfall. There is another series of stone steps down to the waterfall itself. There is a viewing platform for the waterfall. If you want to get closer to the waterfall (and actually drink from the waterfall water), you can pay a small fee at the store to enter another viewing platform closer to the waterfall. I thought this was worth it! We love seeing waterfalls up close (as evidenced by our Pacific Northwest waterfall road trip).

Right outside Nachi Falls is a drag of stores, cafes, and restaurants catering to tourists if you want to pick up snacks or souvenirs before heading back to Kii-Katsuura. The Nachi-no-Taki-Mae stop for Bus line 32 is here as well. Beware that the line for the bus can get long quickly here. So it’s best to get in line as soon as possible.

We were initially planning on hiking down the Kumano Kodo cedar tree trail to the Kumano Kodo bus stop to get a taste of the Kumano Kodo trail. But once we saw the line at the Nachi-no-Taki-Mae stop we decided to skip the hike and just get in line. The bus was completely packed when we got on, so we would not have been able to get on the bus at the Kumano Kodo stop.

Onsen Hotel

Onsens are another bucket list thing to do in Japan because they’re so unique to Japan! We stayed at an onsen resort hotel with multiple onsens, and it was famous for onsens that were carved into a cave. Note that the public onsens are usually segregated by gender because you have to be naked in the onsen. If you’re not comfortable with public nudity or want to soak in the onsen as a family, there are usually private onsens that you can rent for a fee.

We decided to skip the onsen this time since we weren’t quite sure how long it would be safe for our little one to stay in the hot water. Thankfully, there was no shortage of other things to explore around the hotel. Our hotel is also famous for having a crazy long escalator that tunnels up the mountain that the hotel is built into. The escalator leads to a rooftop terrace with a scenic walking path and several viewing platforms overlooking the bay. The views were absolutely gorgeous and made for a fun little adventure without ever leaving the hotel grounds.

The hotel itself had a quirky charm. It was enormous, and as we wandered around, we passed long hallways and empty sitting areas that felt like they had once been bustling with activity but were now abandoned. It felt like stepping back in time. I would have loved to see the resort during its heyday when every corner was full of guests and energy.

Another retro element in the hotel was a corridor of old school claw machines and arcade games we passed on the way to the dining room. Each arcade game was 100 yen per play so it was a cheap and nostalgic way to spend a bit of time for us kids who grew up with arcades! It was fun to introduce our kid to his first arcade experience.

Day 8: Travel to Osaka

The train ride from Kii-Katsuura to Osaka is a long one, so be prepared with many snacks and travel toys for kids to keep them distracted (see my Japan packing list for kids for recommendations).

How to Get from Kii-Katsuura to Osaka:

Take the Kuroshio Ltd Express from Kii-Katsuura station directly to Osaka station (4 hrs). Book seats C & D to sit on the side with ocean views.

Optional Midway Stop: Kushimoto

We noticed a lot of tourists getting off at Kushimoto, and as the train went past we realized why! There are some really unique rock formations in the water here. Our kid was sound asleep so we didn’t want to stop. But it seems like an easy stop to break up the train journey if you’re traveling light.

Dotonbori

Dotonbori is super touristy, but a must see at least once. The street food (like takoyaki) and all the giant characters on the building walls are the highlights here. Of course, we went to take the obligatory picture with the Glico Running Man sign. But we had one goal, and that was the melon bread stand! Our kid is obsessed with melon bread and there is a melon bread stand on the main drag in Dotonbori that sells melon bread with a slab of ice cream in the middle. This was a reward for using inside voices on the long train ride (yes it was basically a bribe. Vacation parenting at its best.) Our kid devoured the whole thing so I did not get a taste but he gave it two thumbs up! He ended up being too full for dinner after that treat so my husband and I enjoyed our dinner at Chibo, a famous chain okonomiyaki restaurant down the street.

We ended the night with some last-minute souvenir shopping at Bic Camera in Namba since Osaka was the final stop on our trip. Bic Camera is my favorite place to shop for souvenirs in Japan! They have almost everything in one store – skincare, health products, snacks, toys, electronics, and more. This makes it easy to hit the tax-free minimum purchase. They also offer an extra coupon on top of the tax-free discount! There is no better feeling than stacking discounts.

I also find Bic Camera to be a much more pleasant shopping experience than Don Quijote. The stores are typically less crowded, less overstimulating, and have multilingual staff who are incredibly helpful. My favorite trick is to show an employee a photo of the product I’m looking for, and they’ll usually take me right to it.

Pro tips for Shopping at Bic Camera: Use the Tax Free Japan website to get an extra coupon for up to 7% off at Bic Camera, on top of the 10% tax free discount!! See my Japan shopping guide post for more details. And to buy yourself more time for shopping, have dad bring your kiddo to the toy floor of Bic Camera. They usually have toy samples that kids can play with there! Our kid happily played with the toy trains there for at least an hour so I could get all my shopping done!

Day 9: Day Trip to Ikoma

Most people go to Nara as their day trip from Osaka. But I had been there before on a previous trip and found those deer to be a little too aggressive for a small kid. So instead, we continued with our goal to find some off the beaten path day trips, and took a day trip out to Ikoma to visit the Ikoma Sanjo Amusement Park. We learned about Ikoma in the same video that we learned about the Panda Train because the trip to Ikoma involves a ride on a dog and cat cable car! If you have transportation-loving kids, this cable car ride will be a hit.

12 day japan itinerary: ikoma dog cable car

How to Get from Osaka to Ikoma Sanjo Amusement Park:

From Osaka Station, take the Osaka Loop Line and ride 7 stops to Tsuruhashi Station. At Tsuruhashi Station, transfer to the Kintetsu-Nara line and ride 1 stop to Ikoma Station. Exit Ikoma Station and look for the signs to the Tori-Mae Station cable car. You’ll walk through a corridor of shops before getting to the cable car station. Take the dog or cat cable car from Tori-Mae Station to Hozanji Station. Transfer to the music cable car at Hozanji Station and ride 3 stops to Ikomasanjo Station. The Ikoma Sanjo Amusement Park is just outside the station. The entire journey takes about 1 hour.

Ikoma Sanjo Amusement Park

  • Age Range: all ages
  • Cost: entrance to the amusement park is free, but you have to pay per ride and each ride costs a different amount. You can purchase ride tickets at the ticket booth or from vending machines on site. If you are planning on riding many rides, then get the Ride Free Pass, which gives unlimited rides for the day (each guest must have their own pass). The best value for us was the 12 ride ticket book for 3600 yen. It gives you 12 tickets that you can use for any ride and can be shared among multiple guests.
  • How to Get There: see above
  • Hours: 10am – 5pm, closed on Thursdays, closed in the winter (early December – mid March)
12 day japan itinerary: ikoma sanjo amusement park

The Ikoma Sanjo Amusement Park felt like an old school amusement park, almost like a county fair. It sits on top of a hill and has amazing views of the city below. They have a variety of rides and a couple old school arcades with those coin-operated moving vehicle rides they used to have in front of malls. Even smaller kids can go on the majority of the rides if they are accompanied by an adult.

Our kid absolutely loved it because he could go on almost everything and there were practically no lines. But funny enough, his favorite part ended up being the stationary vehicles inside the arcade. He happily climbed in and played pretend without realizing until much later that they actually moved if you inserted coins. It was one of those travel moments that reminded us how easily entertained kids can be, and how often we overestimate how much entertainment they really need.

The Ikomayama View Restaurant inside the amusement park is a surprisingly solid choice for lunch. You order through a touch screen with an English menu. The kara-age was better than what we usually find in the US and the ramen was pretty good as well. Usually amusement park food is pretty mediocre and unhealthy in the US, but the standards just seem to be higher in Japan!

Hozanji Temple

Visiting Hozanji Temple ended up being one of those happy travel surprises that wasn’t even on our itinerary. We accidentally missed our transfer for the cable car at Hozanji Station, so instead of waiting around, we decided to exit the station and see what was nearby. Getting to the temple does involve climbing quite a few flights of stairs, but it was worth it! The path up is lined with beautiful stone lanterns, and everything felt so quiet and peaceful. It ended up being one of those slower travel moments that I probably would have skipped if everything had gone according to plan.

Kid-Friendly Places to Eat near Osaka Station:

Places we tried:

  • Menya Kachidoki: tuna broth ramen and chicken paitan ramen. The broth for both types of ramen are super rich and flavorful, and much tastier than it sounds! Order from a machine with English menu. Cash only!
  • Time Out Osaka: a food hall with a bunch of different cuisines. A super easy option for families because it’s easy to find a mix of things everyone will like. Prices are higher, but you’re paying for convenience. The pizza and wagyu sandwich we had here were not bad.
  • Capriciossa: pizza and pasta on the 8th floor restaurant floor of the Links Umeda building. Fast service and really tasty! I’m constantly amazed at how the quality of even restaurants in the dining floors of malls in Japan are comparable to fancy restaurants in the US. This dining floor was buzzing with people, and there were lines at nearly every restaurant so it seems none of them are misses.

Other places I bookmarked:

  • Kishimen Amano: udon
  • Carnesio West: Italian and Argentinian steak. Reservations available online and are recommended. We tried to walk in here and we were turned away. It actually looked much fancier inside so I don’t think they are actually very kid-friendly.
  • Il Ghiottone di Piu: italian
  • Fiveran Osaka Coffee Base: coffee and pastries
  • Jinrui Mina Menrui Premium: ramen
  • Kitashinchi Sand: egg sandos and steak sandos. Take out only. Further from Osaka Station, close to JR Kitashinchi Station.
  • Torisaki: Yakitori
  • Allegro Umeda Ten: Neapolitan pizza
  • Nishi ya Guranfurantosakaten: udon
  • Komugi no Megami: chicken paitan ramen
  • Cosme Kitchen: Organic Cafe

Day 10: Day Trip to Minoh Park Waterfall

Minoh Park Waterfall is only a 30 minute train ride away from central Osaka, and such a scenic nature escape. It’s an easy, stroller-friendly (most of the time) hike near Osaka. Although it’s a bit of a walk to get from the train station to the waterfall, there are a couple worthwhile stops along the way to break up the walk. This park is filled with maple trees, so it is especially popular in the fall when the leaves turn a brilliant red.

When we visited, they were doing repair work on the upper portion of the paved path leading to the waterfall. This meant that this “stroller-friendly hike” turned into a NOT stroller-friendly detour through a mountain path involving many stone steps. Our kid was a trooper and hiked the whole thing, and my husband had to haul the stroller. Double check road conditions before visiting if you’re planning on using a stroller!

How to Get There:

From Osaka-Umeda Station, take the Takarazuka Main Line 4 stops to Ishibashi Handai-Mae Station. Transfer to the Hankyu-Mino Line and ride 3 stops to Mino-o Station. From Mino-o Station, it’s about a 40 minute paved walk uphill to the waterfall.

We stopped at the bakery right outside the station to pick up some bread in case we got hungry on the walk. The path up to the waterfall is lined with stores selling local tempura maple leaves and other snacks.

Minoh Park Insectarium

  • Age Range: all ages
  • Cost: 280 yen for adults, free for kids
  • How to Get There: 15 minute walk from Mino-o Station
  • Hours: 10am – 5pm, closed on Tuesdays
12 day japan itinerary: minoh park insectarium

The Minoh Park Insectarium is about a 15 minute walk from the station. They have a variety of insect exhibits and the highlight is the butterfly garden. Sadly, we visited on a Tuesday so the museum was closed.

Ryuanji Temple

We were drawn to this temple because of the vibrant red bridge spanning the pathway. It’s just a little past the Insectarium and a scenic place to take another photo break. You can enter both temples and admire the artwork.

12 day japan itinerary: minoh park ryuanji temple

Minoh Falls

From Ryuanji Temple, it’s a 30 minute steep climp up to Minoh Falls. It ended up taking about double that time for us because we had to take the detour hike through the woods. But it was still worth it! Minoh Falls is such a peaceful place, surrounded by maple trees. There is a little snack stand right at the waterfall selling ice cream, drinks, and snacks (cash only), which was a lovely reward after a long hike.

Day 11: Osaka Castle

We usually like to have a chill day on our last day of vacation to unwind and mentally prepare for going home. Rather than doing another day trip, we explored the main sights in Osaka.

Osaka Castle

My biggest tip for Osaka Castle is don’t bother going inside unless you have booked tickets ahead of time. The lines to get into the castle can be hours long. And there isn’t really that much to see inside. The facade of the castle is much more impressive and the highlight of the visit. While it may seem like a missed opportunity to walk all the way up to the castle and not go inside, just taking pictures of the outside is the best way to enjoy the castle, in my opinion.

12 day japan itinerary: osaka castle

Osaka Castle Park Road Train

The Road Train was a happy discovery, spotted by our son’s eagle eye for train rides of all types! The Road Train runs all around Osaka Castle Park. Not only is it a fun and cheap train ride for kids, it is a great way for saving yourself from walking long distances to get around the park. There is a stop for the Road Train right in front of Osaka Castle. We took the Road Train from Osaka Castle to the playground and saved ourselves a 30 minute walk in the heat. Buy tickets from the ticket machine (cash only).

Osaka Castle Park Playground

We always try to incorporate some playground time for our kid if there is one close to our sightseeing. The Osaka Castle Park Playground may be better for slightly older toddlers because there is a lot of climbing involved. One of the highlights here is a super long slide. There are bathrooms next to the playground.

Ramen Lunch

We had lunch just across the street from the Osaka Castle Park Playground at Ichiage Ippai. Their specialties are Taiwanese fried chicken and ramen with broth simmered with pork and bonito flakes. Every ramen shop we visited in Japan had 10/10 broth that was not greasy or heavy like some in the US. Either we happened to pick great places, or you just can’t go wrong with ramen in Japan.

Namba Yasaka Jinja

Because we had some extra time in the afternoon, we headed to Namba to see the lion head Namba Yasaka Jinja shrine. This is one of those Instagram-famous places where most people are there for the photo-op. Not ashamed to admit we were one of those people.

12 day japan itinerary: osaka namba yasaka jinja shrine

Afternoon Tea at Intercontinental Osaka

I love afternoon tea. It’s one of my favorite meals. Because we booked the Intercontinental Osaka using our Chase Sapphire Reserve The Edit credit, we had a $100 dining credit included in our stay (contact me for a referral to sign up for the Chase Sapphire Reserve with bonus points!). My mom treat was enjoying a peaceful afternoon tea by myself in the lounge. The afternoon tea was surprisingly affordable for a hotel afternoon tea. The menu changes seasonally based on what is in season. I usually like the savory options more than the sweet options, and usually end up packing the sweets home for my husband and kid. But in this case, I found the savory options pretty mediocre but was blown away by the sweets. The strawberry yuzu truffle was the most amazing chocolate I have had in a while.

Day 12: Fly Home

The two airports in the Osaka area are Itami (ITM) and Kansai International Airport (KIX). KIX is the international airport while ITM handles domestic flights to Tokyo where you can connect to international flights. For both airports, I think the airport bus is the easiest, cheapest, and most direct option. Plus all your luggage gets stowed under the bus, so you don’t have to worry about sending it ahead.

If flying out of ITM, plan to get to the airport at least 3 hours in advance. There is only one line for checking in luggage for foreign visitors. We ended up waiting in that line for one hour just to check in our luggage. I imagine the situation in KIX is similar, given so many tourists visiting Kyoto and Osaka.

  • Airport bus to ITM airport from Osaka Station: the airport bus stop for ITM station is across the street from the Hilton Osaka. The ride takes about 30 minutes depending on traffic.
  • Airport bus to KIX from Osaka Station: the airport bus stop for KIX station is at Hankyu Sanbangai, which is Hankyu Umeda Station complex. The ride takes about 50-70 minutes depending on traffic.
  • Private Transfers: if you have a large group, booking a private transfer from your hotel might be just as cost effective and would be much quicker.

Packing Essentials for Kids in Japan

  • Layers of clothing:
    • Light rain jacket: it’s helpful to keep a packable rain jacket that doesn’t take up too much space in your everyday bag. We didn’t want to bother with carrying multiple umbrellas so a rain jacket was clutch on the sprinkly days.
    • Comfortable walking shoes: everyone does a lot more walking in Japan than usual. Make sure kids have comfortable shoes that are easy on and off! The ones we love have grippy soles, wide toe boxes, and are super easy for kids to put on and take off on their own.
    • Sun hat: the sun in Japan can feel intense. We especially like the sun hats with neck protection because I always forget to apply sunscreen to the back of my kid’s neck.
    • Socks: part of Japanese culture is taking shoes off indoors, so you will find yourself removing your shoes much more than usual. Make sure to pack the good socks without holes!
    • Long sleeve rash guard and swim trunks: a long sleeve rash guard for maximum sun coverage is clutch because there is no shade on the beach here!
    • Kids swim goggles: these swim goggles for kids are easy to put on, keep water out, and are actually comfortable enough to wear that my kid keeps it on with no fuss!
    • Japan is a shopping mecca (for tips on what to get, check out my curated list in this Japan shopping guide for moms!). If you forget to pack anything, you can probably find what you need at Muji or Uniqlo at a good price!
  • Snacks and hydration:
    • Favorite snacks: Japan is a snack paradise, so I’m sure your kiddo will eventually find something that they like at the convenience stores. But bring some favorite snacks from home to tide you over until you figure out which Japanese snacks your kids love. Don’t forget to bring snack containers! There are no public trash cans so using reusable snack containers will limit the trash you have to carry during the day.
    • Water bottle: tap water is generally safe to drink in Japan, though we still prefer bottled water to avoid stomach upset as a result of the difference in mineral content.
japan with kids travel tips - convenience snacks
  • Entertainment options for downtime:
    • Screens will usually keep kids occupied, and while our kiddo gets a lot more screen time than usual when traveling, we don’t like to rely solely on screens for entertainment because there are usually more massive meltdowns when we try to turn it off. Make sure you pack kids headphones if using screens, because trains and public spaces are very quiet.
    • We bring one new book (search and find books or lift the flap books are great!), Water Wow coloring books, sticker books, and drawing pads for travel days.
    • We usually make a toy store one of our first stops and get a small toy for our kid to play with during the trip. This also doubles as a souvenir, because whenever he plays with the toy at home he remembers where he got it. In Japan, he picked out some Tomica Thomas Trains that he loved.
japan with kids travel tips - tomica store
  • Kids supplies for daily living:
    • Sleep essentials: bring anything that your kid needs to sleep well to encourage good sleep while traveling. For us, that is a sound machine.
    • Medications: it goes without saying to pack any prescription medications your kid is taking. I also bring over-the-counter kids medications like Children’s Tylenol and Children’s Zyrtec, just in case. I’m okay with buying Japanese OTC meds for myself and winging it with the translation, but I prefer using the kids’ OTC meds we’re familiar with because I am sure about the dosing and ingredients.
    • Sunscreen: the sun is no joke in Japan in the summer. And since we were walking around all day, we put sunscreen on our kid every day. This sunscreen stick was a gamechanger for actually getting him to put sunscreen on his face.
    • If you forgot anything, look for these stores in Japan that sell all kinds of kids goods: Nishimatsuya, Babies “R” Us, Akachan Honpo
  • Travel Stroller: If your kid is not used to walking a lot at home it can be helpful to bring a stroller. But keep in mind that Japan is not as stroller friendly as the US. There are many stairs in train stations and elevators are small and require a longer walk to find. Many restaurants and stores are small and can’t always accommodate a stroller. While we did use our stroller, we folded it up and carried it quite a bit during train transfers to avoid having to take the long way around. If you do bring a stroller, bringing a smaller travel stroller is key. We love our Yoyo. The Gb Pockit strollers also pack up amazingly small.
  • Hip Seat Carrier: A better alternative to a stroller if your kid is still small enough to carry is a hip seat carrier. We loved using ours during our trip to Switzerland because it’s one less thing to carry through train stations. The hip seat is clutch because it’s more comfortable to sit in for longer periods. We loved our version that had straps and could be worn in the front or back. It’s especially helpful for crowded places like Japan where maneuvering a stroller can be tricky.
  • Ride Safer Travel Vest: taxis in Japan don’t require car seats. But that can be nerve wracking for parents. And you don’t want to lug around a car seat for the one or two car rides you may take in Japan. That’s where the compact Ride Safer Travel Vest comes in to keep kids safe in cars without taking up too much luggage space.
  • Power plug adapters: Japan uses two pronged plugs similar to the US, except the prongs are the same length. Most 2 pronged chargers will work fine without adapters. If you have any chargers that have 3 prongs, then you’ll need an adapter.

Reality Check of Traveling to Japan with Kids

After traveling to Japan a handful of times with and without kids, my (possibly unpopular) opinion is that Japan loves babies, but just tolerates toddlers and kids. It feels like even kids who would be considered well behaved in the US are considered a bit too loud and rambunctious in Japan. There isn’t a lot of understanding for kids being kids. Just know that there will be a lot more rules to follow for kids, which can feel a bit stifling.

That said, we would still go back to Japan with kids – with the right itinerary. Because this itinerary includes a lot of outdoor time in nature, there was less pressure for our kid to be quiet and more space for him to explore. We learned from our previous mistakes and didn’t try to pack too much into a day. Because there was a long train ride almost every day, our kid could nap if he was tired, which definitely helped his mood. There was a good mix of kid activities and cultural activities, so we hit a sweet spot of finding activities everyone enjoyed. And because we ventured beyond the main tourist hotspots, there were far fewer crowds and the destinations felt less over-impacted by overtourism. Overall, we all enjoyed this trip more than our previous trip to Japan with our kid!

Read More About Japan with Kids

Read More About Japan

Author

Hi! I'm a travel lover and now a mom figuring out how to go from traveling as a couple to adventuring as a family with a toddler and a dog. As we experiment with how to make family travel work, I’m sharing our tips and itineraries to help make your trips easier. Follow along for toddler- and dog-friendly travel ideas and parents-only getaways you can recreate for your own adventures!

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